Coast & beaches Food & drink Walking
Why Kinsale
Kinsale’s narrow streets, painted shopfronts and busy harbour make it one of the most charming small towns in Ireland, and it has called itself Ireland’s gourmet capital for decades. It also has a star fort, a cliff walk, beaches and the whole of West Cork on its doorstep. And with Cork Airport about 25 minutes away, it’s an easy target even if you’re coming from further afield.
Kinsale on foot
Kinsale is built for wandering. Start at the harbour, follow the narrow streets up past the painted shopfronts, and you’ll find St Multose Church, which dates from around 1200, and the 16th-century Desmond Castle, home to a small wine museum in summer. The town is compact enough that you’ll pass the same spots three times in a day, and that’s no bad thing. Pop into the Kinsale Museum in the old market house for the story of the Battle of Kinsale in 1601, a turning point in Irish history, and browse the galleries and craft shops on Main Street and Market Square.
The Scilly Walk and Charles Fort
For the best walk, take the Scilly Walk out to Summercove and on to Charles Fort. It follows the water for about two kilometres, past the Spaniard pub, and ends at a vast 17th-century star fort with views straight down the harbour mouth. The fort, run by the OPW, has exhibitions and guided tours. On the way back, have a pint at the Bulman in Summercove; on a sunny evening, the crowd spills onto the sea wall. Across the harbour, the older James Fort is a quieter walk, with a small beach below it at Castlepark. In summer, harbour cruises leave from the pier, and you can rent a kayak on calm days to paddle up the Bandon River.
The Old Head and the beaches
The Old Head of Kinsale juts far out into the Atlantic. The tip is a private golf course, but the headland road gives fine views, and the Lusitania Museum and Signal Tower remembers the liner torpedoed off the Old Head in 1915. Nearby, Garrettstown is popular for surf lessons in summer, and Garrylucas next door is a sheltered family beach. Both have lifeguards in the summer season.
Out along the coast
With a third night, head west. The drive from Kinsale through Timoleague, Clonakilty and on to Glandore and Union Hall is one of the prettiest in the country, all small harbours and back roads.
- Clonakilty: a lively little town, good for lunch, with the Michael Collins House museum.
- Inchydoney: one of the best beaches in Cork, a few minutes from Clonakilty.
- Drombeg stone circle near Glandore: free, open all the time and quietly impressive.
- Baltimore: ferries to Sherkin and Cape Clear islands, and whale and dolphin trips from here and Union Hall in summer and early autumn.
Eating in Ireland’s food town
Seafood is the obvious order: chowder in a pub at lunch, then something better at dinner. Fishy Fishy is the famous name, but there are excellent restaurants all over town. The Kinsale Gourmet Festival in October is a great excuse for a weekend. Book anything for a Saturday night well in advance on a long weekend, because the town fills up with Corkonians doing the same thing you are.
When it rains
Charles Fort’s exhibitions, Desmond Castle, the Kinsale Museum, a harbour cruise (the boats are covered) and a long lunch will see you through. Cork city, 30 minutes away, has the English Market and the Crawford Art Gallery.
Good to know before you go
- Kinsale’s hotels are small and popular, so book weeks ahead for the August bank holiday.
- Parking in town is limited at weekends. Walk or use your hotel’s car park.
- Charles Fort is open all year, but hours are shorter in winter.
- West Cork roads are slow and twisty, so allow plenty of time.
If you’re flying in, Kinsale makes a brilliant first or last night of a longer trip around the south-west: it’s close enough to the airport for an early flight, and far enough away to feel like a proper break.
Which area to stay in
Stay in Kinsale town to walk to the restaurants, the harbour and the Scilly Walk. For a West Cork extension, Clonakilty is a great second base, and Cork city is a good back-up when Kinsale is full.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive and have dinner in town.
Saturday: the Scilly Walk to Charles Fort, a pint at the Bulman and the Old Head in the afternoon.
Sunday: west to Clonakilty and Inchydoney, Drombeg and Glandore, then home.
Kinsale is a treat for the May bank holiday or the October bank holiday, around the time of the Gourmet Festival. For more of Cork, see Cobh and East Cork and Cork city.
Frequently asked questions
How far is Kinsale from Cork Airport?
About 25 minutes by car, and buses between Cork city and Kinsale stop at the airport.
Is Kinsale good for families?
Yes. Charles Fort, the harbour boat trips and the beaches at Garrettstown and Inchydoney keep kids busy, and the town itself is safe and small.
How long is the Scilly Walk to Charles Fort?
About two kilometres each way from the town centre, along the water. Allow an hour and a half with a visit to the fort.
Can I visit Kinsale without a car?
Yes. Take the train or fly to Cork, then the regular bus to Kinsale. You’ll want a car or a tour for West Cork.
Where we’d stay
Harbour views, a pool and a short stroll to the town centre.
Right in the middle of town, above a lively bar and restaurant.
Elegant townhouse on the waterfront, small and quietly luxurious.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there without a car
Get to Cork by train or plane, then a regular bus to Kinsale.
- Train from Dublin Heuston to Cork Kent, about 2 hours 30 minutes.
- Bus Éireann runs between Cork city bus station and Kinsale, stopping at Cork Airport.
- A car (or a tour) helps for West Cork villages beyond Kinsale.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
