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The orchard county and a city of two cathedrals
Armagh is Ireland’s ecclesiastical capital, a small city with two cathedrals named after St Patrick, one on each hill, a Georgian mall, an observatory and a library founded in 1771. Around it lies the Orchard County, famous for its apples, which turn the countryside pink and white with blossom each May. Add an ancient royal site, the forest drive at Slieve Gullion and some excellent local cider, and Armagh makes a cracking, easy weekend.
Remember it’s Northern Ireland, so prices are in pounds sterling.
St Patrick’s two cathedrals
St Patrick founded a church in Armagh in the fifth century, and the city has been the seat of both the Church of Ireland and Catholic archbishops of all Ireland ever since. The Church of Ireland St Patrick’s Cathedral stands on the hill where Patrick built his church, and the High King Brian Boru is said to be buried in its grounds. Across the valley, the twin-spired Catholic St Patrick’s Cathedral, built between 1840 and 1904, is a spectacular Gothic Revival church with a richly decorated interior. Visit both, and look out for the stained glass and mosaics. They’re about ten minutes’ walk apart, and the view from each hill takes in the other.
Libraries and stars
- Armagh Robinson Library: founded in 1771, with rare books and manuscripts, including a first edition of Gulliver’s Travels annotated by Jonathan Swift.
- Armagh Observatory and Planetarium: an observatory founded in 1790 and a planetarium with a digital dome theatre, ideal for families.
- The Mall: a long, tree-lined Georgian park in the middle of the city, perfect for a stroll.
- The Palace Demesne: the former archbishop’s palace and parkland, with walking trails and a café.
Navan Fort
Just west of the city, Navan Fort (Emain Macha) was the ancient royal capital of Ulster and the setting for many of the legends of Cú Chulainn and the Red Branch Knights. Today it’s a large circular earthwork on a hill, with sweeping views and a visitor centre that brings the stories and archaeology to life. It’s a short drive from the city centre. Go late in the afternoon, when the light is low and you might have the hill to yourself.
Apples, blossom and cider
The Armagh Bramley apple has protected status, and the county’s orchards are at their most beautiful during blossom time in May. Local farms make excellent craft ciders and apple juices, and many sell from the farm gate or run tours and tastings. Each autumn, the Armagh Food and Cider Festival celebrates the harvest with orchard tours, tastings and pop-up dining.
Slieve Gullion and the south
In the south of the county, Slieve Gullion Forest Park sits at the heart of the Ring of Gullion, a ring of hills formed by an ancient volcano, now an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. A scenic forest drive climbs the mountain, and you can walk to the summit to see a passage tomb and a small lake steeped in legend. There’s a family-friendly giant’s lair trail at the bottom. Nearby, Killeavy Castle Estate is a restored 19th-century castle and luxury hotel.
When it rains
The planetarium, the Robinson Library, both cathedrals and the Navan Centre are all great on a wet day, and the Armagh County Museum on the Mall is free.
Where to eat and drink
Armagh city has good cafés and restaurants around the Mall and English Street. Look out for local apples, cider and Armagh Bramley apple tarts on menus, and for farm shops on the orchard roads.
Good to know before you go
- Northern Ireland uses pounds sterling, though cards are accepted almost everywhere.
- Blossom time is usually late April to mid-May, depending on the weather.
- Some orchard tours and cider tastings only run on set dates, so book ahead.
- The Slieve Gullion forest drive has seasonal opening hours.
Which area to stay in
Stay in Armagh city to walk to the cathedrals, the Mall and the observatory. For the Ring of Gullion and a bit of luxury, base yourself at Killeavy, near Newry. Farm stays in the orchard country are great for families.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Armagh and stroll the Mall.
Saturday: the two cathedrals and the Robinson Library in the morning, Navan Fort in the afternoon and the planetarium if it’s raining.
Sunday: Slieve Gullion’s forest drive and summit walk on the way home.
Armagh is perfect for the May bank holiday for apple blossom time, and the St Patrick’s Day festival is a big event in the city. Combine it with the Mournes or Belfast.
Frequently asked questions
Why does Armagh have two St Patrick’s cathedrals?
Armagh is the seat of both the Church of Ireland and Catholic archbishops of all Ireland, and each church has its own St Patrick’s Cathedral, on neighbouring hills.
When is apple blossom season in Armagh?
Usually from late April to mid-May, depending on the weather. The orchards are a spectacular sight.
What is Navan Fort?
The ancient royal capital of Ulster, known as Emain Macha, linked to the legends of Cú Chulainn. It’s a large earthwork on a hill just outside Armagh city.
Can I get to Armagh without a car?
Yes, with a change. Take the Enterprise train from Dublin to Portadown or Newry, then a bus to Armagh. You’ll want a car for the orchards and Slieve Gullion.
Where we’d stay
A restored 19th-century castle estate and hotel at the foot of Slieve Gullion.
A modern hotel with a pool beside the Palace Demesne.
A family-run hotel on English Street in the city centre.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About an hour and a half from Dublin by car, or by train and bus.
- By car: about an hour and a half from Dublin via the M1 and A29, or 50 minutes from Belfast.
- By train and bus: the Enterprise from Dublin to Portadown or Newry, then a bus to Armagh city.
- Getting around: the city is walkable. You’ll want a car for the orchards, Navan Fort and Slieve Gullion.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
