Ireland’s most southerly inhabited island
Forty minutes by boat from Baltimore, Cape Clear (Oileán Chléire) is a small, hilly, Irish-speaking island of stone walls, wild flowers and fishing harbours, with only around 100 people living on it all year. It’s the most southerly inhabited part of Ireland, the Fastnet Rock lighthouse stands on the horizon, and on a sunny day the water is as blue as anywhere in the Mediterranean.
There are no visitors’ cars, so the island’s few roads belong to walkers, and life runs to the timetable of the ferry. Come for a night or two, and you’ll leave feeling like you’ve been away for a week.
Getting there from Baltimore
The ferry runs from Baltimore all year, and in summer there are also sailings from Schull. It’s a passenger-only service, so leave the car in Baltimore. Booking ahead is a good idea in peak season, and bring some cash, as card machines can be unreliable with the island’s patchy signal. On the way, keep an eye out for dolphins, seals and, in late summer, even whales.
Walking the island
Cape Clear is only about 5 km long, but it’s hilly, so a walk around it feels like an adventure. The Cape Clear loop walks lead up from North Harbour past the ruins of a 12th-century church and St Ciarán’s holy well, to the old signal tower and the lighthouse ruins on the south-west cliffs, with views to the Fastnet. In late spring, the island’s lanes are full of wild flowers, and in autumn it’s one of the best places in Ireland to see migrating birds.
- North Harbour: where the ferry lands, with the island’s pubs, shop and café.
- South Harbour: a sheltered inlet on the far side of the island, lovely for a quiet swim on a calm day.
- Dún an Óir: the ruins of an O’Driscoll castle on a sea stack on the west coast.
- The heritage centre: island history, the Irish language and the story of the Fastnet lighthouse.
The Fastnet Rock
Six km south-west of Cape Clear, the Fastnet Rock lighthouse is known as Ireland’s teardrop, as it was the last sight of home for emigrants sailing to America. In summer, boat trips run out from Baltimore and Schull to circle the rock, with the lighthouse towering above you. It’s one of the best boat trips in Ireland on a calm day.
Baltimore and Sherkin
Baltimore is a lively harbour village with a castle, a famous white beacon on the headland and pubs on the square, and it’s well worth a night either side of your island stay. Just across the harbour, Sherkin Island, ten minutes by ferry, has a ruined friary and some of the best beaches in West Cork, like Silver Strand. Do both islands if you can.
Between Baltimore and Skibbereen, Lough Hyne is a remarkable saltwater lake, Ireland’s first marine nature reserve, fed by the sea through a narrow channel. Walk up through the woods on Knockomagh Hill above it for a fabulous view, and in summer, join a guided night kayak trip to see the lake’s bioluminescence glowing in the dark water.
When it rains
Cape Clear in the rain is all about the pub and the heritage centre. On the mainland, Skibbereen, 15 minutes from Baltimore, has the Skibbereen Heritage Centre, with a moving exhibition on the Great Famine, and a great Saturday market.
Where to eat and drink
Cape Clear’s pubs and café are near North Harbour, and in summer there’s live music and island seafood. In Baltimore, the pubs and restaurants around the square serve local fish, crab and oysters, and the outdoor tables are the place to be on a sunny evening.
Good to know before you go
- The Baltimore ferry runs all year; summer sailings also run from Schull. There are no visitors’ cars on the island.
- Bring some cash: card machines can be unreliable when the signal drops.
- Accommodation on the island is limited, so book well ahead for summer.
- The island is hilly. Wear proper walking shoes and bring a rain jacket.
Which area to stay in
Stay a night on Cape Clear if you can, in a B&B, a self-catering cottage or the island hostel. Otherwise, Baltimore makes a lovely base, with Skibbereen as a cheaper option nearby.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Baltimore, walk out to the Beacon and have dinner on the square.
Saturday: the morning ferry to Cape Clear, a long walk to the south-west cliffs and the lighthouse ruins, and a night on the island.
Sunday: the ferry back, a Fastnet boat trip in summer or Sherkin’s beaches, then home via Skibbereen.
Cape Clear is perfect for the June bank holiday and late summer, and the October bank holiday for birdwatching. Combine it with Kinsale and West Cork.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Cape Clear Island?
By passenger ferry from Baltimore, all year, and from Schull in summer. There are no visitors’ cars on the island.
Is Irish spoken on Cape Clear?
Yes. Cape Clear is a Gaeltacht island, and Irish is spoken in daily life, though everyone speaks English too.
Can you visit the Fastnet Rock?
You can’t land, but boat trips circle the rock and its lighthouse in summer, from Baltimore and Schull.
Is there accommodation on Cape Clear?
Yes, but it’s limited: a few B&Bs, self-catering cottages and a hostel. Book ahead for summer.
Where we’d stay
A family-run hotel overlooking Baltimore harbour, close to the ferry.
Search Cape Clear's B&Bs, cottages and hostel, and book early.
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Getting there
About four hours from Dublin to Baltimore, then the ferry.
- By car: about four hours from Dublin via Cork and Skibbereen, or an hour and a quarter from Cork city.
- By public transport: buses run from Cork to Skibbereen, with a local connection to Baltimore. Check times, as services are limited.
- The ferry: passenger ferries run from Baltimore all year, and from Schull in summer.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
