No car needed Rainy-day options Walking
Walls, murals and a city full of stories
Derry (officially Londonderry, and known to many simply as the Maiden City) is one of the most interesting small cities in Europe. It’s the only city in Ireland whose 17th-century walls are still complete, it has a riverside full of new life, a powerful and moving modern history, and a humour all of its own (if you’ve watched Derry Girls, you’ll know). The Derry Girls mural on Orchard Street has become a sight in its own right, and the city wears its sitcom fame with a grin. It’s also the gateway to Inishowen and the Causeway Coast.
Remember it’s Northern Ireland, so it’s pounds sterling.
Walk the walls
Completed in 1619, Derry’s city walls run for about 1.5 km around the old city, and you can walk the whole circuit on top in under an hour. They were never breached, even during the Siege of 1689, which lasted 105 days. Along the way you’ll see cannon, gates and views over the Bogside, the river and the hills of Donegal. Join a guided walking tour to bring the history to life, or simply wander at your own pace and read the information panels.
The Bogside and the murals
Below the walls, the Bogside is where much of the city’s 20th-century story played out, from the civil rights movement to Bloody Sunday in 1972. The People’s Gallery murals tell that history on the gable walls, beside Free Derry Corner. The Museum of Free Derry covers the period with care and honesty, and a local guide can help you understand both sides of the city’s story.
Museums and the river
- The Tower Museum: the city’s history from prehistory to the present, plus the story of a Spanish Armada ship wrecked off Donegal.
- The Guildhall: a striking neo-Gothic building with beautiful stained glass, free to visit.
- St Columb’s Cathedral: built in 1633, the first cathedral built in these islands after the Reformation, with relics of the siege.
- The Peace Bridge: a curving footbridge across the Foyle, opened in 2011, linking the city centre with Ebrington Square.
For the siege story in depth, visit the Siege Museum beside the walls, which tells the story of 1689 and of the Apprentice Boys who shut the city gates. Seeing it alongside the Museum of Free Derry gives you a real sense of how the city’s history is remembered by different communities.
Halloween and festivals
Derry hosts one of the biggest Halloween celebrations in Europe, with fireworks, a carnival parade and the whole city in costume. If you’re visiting over the October bank holiday, book months ahead. The city also hosts a busy jazz festival and plenty of music, comedy and theatre.
Day trips
Head east along the coast to Mussenden Temple and Downhill Demesne, perched on a cliff above the long beach at Benone, about 45 minutes away. West into Donegal, the Grianán of Aileach, an ancient stone fort on a hilltop, is 20 minutes from the city, and the whole Inishowen peninsula is on your doorstep.
When it rains
The Tower Museum, the Guildhall, the Museum of Free Derry, St Columb’s Cathedral and the Siege Museum make Derry a great rainy-day city. The cafés and pubs of Waterloo Street and Shipquay Street do the rest.
Where to eat and drink
Derry’s food scene has grown up fast, with good restaurants inside the walls and around the Guildhall, and traditional music in the pubs on Waterloo Street most nights. The city’s cafés are excellent for a long breakfast, and Ebrington Square, across the Peace Bridge, has bars and restaurants in the old army barracks with views back across the river to the walls.
Good to know before you go
- Northern Ireland uses pounds sterling, though cards are accepted almost everywhere.
- Halloween is the busiest weekend of the year, so book everything early.
- Walking tours of the walls and the Bogside run year-round. Book a guide to get the most from them.
- The train from Belfast to Derry is one of the most scenic rail journeys on the island, running along the coast past Downhill and Castlerock.
Which area to stay in
Stay inside or just outside the walls to walk everywhere. The riverfront hotels are handy for the Peace Bridge and Ebrington, and country house hotels on the edge of the city suit a quieter break.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive and walk the walls as the light fades.
Saturday: a guided Bogside and walls tour, the Tower Museum and the Guildhall, then music on Waterloo Street.
Sunday: Mussenden Temple and Benone Strand, or the Grianán of Aileach, on the way home.
Combine Derry with Inishowen or the Causeway Coast for a longer trip.
Frequently asked questions
Can you walk around Derry’s city walls?
Yes. The full circuit is about 1.5 km and takes under an hour. It’s free and open every day.
Is Derry worth a weekend?
Absolutely. Two nights covers the walls, the Bogside murals, the museums and a day trip to Mussenden Temple or Inishowen.
How do I get to Derry from Dublin?
About three hours by car via the M1 and A5, or by coach in around four hours. You can also take the train from Belfast.
When is the Derry Halloween festival?
Over the last few days of October, usually around the October bank holiday weekend. Book accommodation months ahead.
Where we’d stay
A country house hotel in woodland on the edge of the city.
A modern hotel on the river, a short walk from the walls.
Right inside the walls, close to the Guildhall and the shops.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About three hours from Dublin by car or a little longer by coach, with a scenic train from Belfast.
- By car: about three hours from Dublin via the M1 and A5 through Monaghan and Omagh.
- By coach: express services run from Dublin and Dublin Airport to Derry, taking about four hours.
- By train: from Belfast Grand Central to Derry, about two hours, with a beautiful stretch along the coast.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
