Food & drink No car needed Rainy-day options Walking
A weekend in the capital, done properly
If you live outside Dublin, the capital is usually somewhere you pass through for a flight, a match or a concert. It’s worth staying for its own sake. Dublin has world-class free museums, Georgian squares, two cathedrals, a castle, a huge city park with wild deer and, a short train ride away, cliff walks and seaside villages that feel a hundred miles from the city.
The trick is not to bring the car: parking is expensive, the traffic is slow, and almost everything is walkable or a short tram, bus or DART ride away.
The free museums
Dublin’s national museums and galleries are free, and they’re excellent. The National Museum of Archaeology on Kildare Street has Celtic gold, the Ardagh Chalice and the eerie bog bodies; the National Gallery on Merrion Square has Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ and a fine Irish collection; and the Chester Beatty in the grounds of Dublin Castle holds one of the world’s great collections of manuscripts and art from across Asia and the Middle East.
The big sights
- Trinity College and the Book of Kells: the ninth-century illuminated manuscript and the Long Room library. Book a timed ticket.
- Kilmainham Gaol: the prison where the leaders of the 1916 Rising were executed. The guided tour is powerful, and it sells out, so book ahead.
- EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum: an award-winning interactive museum in the old docklands, ideal on a wet day.
- Guinness Storehouse: a seven-floor celebration of the black stuff, with a pint and a view over the city at the top.
- Croke Park: the GAA Museum and stadium tour, or the Skyline rooftop walk if heights don’t bother you.
Parks, squares and Georgian Dublin
St Stephen’s Green and Merrion Square are the city’s front gardens, ringed by Georgian terraces and their famous coloured doors. For something bigger, the Phoenix Park is one of the largest enclosed city parks in Europe, home to a herd of wild fallow deer, Dublin Zoo and the President’s residence. Hire a bike at the gate and spend an afternoon.
Head for the coast
The DART train runs along Dublin Bay, and both ends of the line are well worth a day. North, Howth is a fishing village with a busy harbour, seafood restaurants and the Howth Cliff Path, a loop around the headland with views across the bay. South, Dalkey is a village of narrow streets and old castles, with a short climb up Killiney Hill for one of the finest views in Ireland. On the way, the Forty Foot in Sandycove is where Dubliners have been swimming all year round for generations.
Eating, drinking and music
Dublin’s food scene is the best in the country, from cheap and cheerful to fine dining, and the areas around Camden Street, Smithfield and Stoneybatter are full of good, reasonably priced places. Temple Bar is lively but pricey; for traditional music and a better pint, try the older pubs around the city centre and Smithfield. Book dinner for Friday and Saturday nights, and book well ahead on match and concert weekends.
Good to know before you go
- Get a Leap Visitor card or tap your bank card on buses, the Luas and the DART: fares are capped daily.
- Book Kilmainham Gaol, the Book of Kells and the Guinness Storehouse online before you travel, especially at weekends.
- Big match and concert weekends at Croke Park and the Aviva push hotel prices up sharply. Check the fixtures before you book.
- Several museums open later on Sundays and Mondays, and hours change on bank holidays, so check before you go.
When it rains
Dublin is made for rainy days: the free museums, the Chester Beatty, EPIC, the Little Museum of Dublin on St Stephen’s Green, 14 Henrietta Street (a Georgian townhouse turned tenement museum) and the Guinness Storehouse will fill a weekend on their own.
Which area to stay in
Stay between St Stephen’s Green and the Liffey to walk everywhere. Smithfield and Stoneybatter are a little cheaper, with great pubs and the Luas on the doorstep, and the Docklands suit modern hotels near the 3Arena and the Aviva. Hotel prices jump on concert, match and bank holiday weekends, so book early.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive by train, check in and have dinner around Camden Street or Smithfield.
Saturday: Trinity and the Book of Kells, the National Museum and the National Gallery, then Kilmainham Gaol in the afternoon and a pub with music at night.
Sunday: the DART to Howth for the cliff path and a seafood lunch, or Dalkey and Killiney Hill, then the train home.
Dublin is ideal for the St Patrick’s Day festival or a cosy St Brigid’s Day weekend. See our St Patrick’s Festival guide and Christmas markets guide for the city’s big events.
Frequently asked questions
Are Dublin’s museums free?
Yes. The National Museum, the National Gallery and the Chester Beatty are all free. Some attractions, like the Book of Kells, Kilmainham Gaol and EPIC, charge entry and should be booked ahead.
Should I drive into Dublin for the weekend?
Not if you can avoid it. Parking is expensive and traffic is slow. Trains from around the country arrive at Heuston and Connolly, and the city is easy on foot, by Luas, bus and DART.
How do I get to Howth from Dublin city?
Take the DART from Connolly, Tara Street or Pearse to Howth. It takes about 30 minutes.
What is the best area to stay in Dublin?
The streets between St Stephen’s Green and the Liffey put you within walking distance of most sights. Smithfield and Stoneybatter are good-value alternatives on the Luas line.
Where we’d stay
Dublin's grandest hotel, on St Stephen's Green since 1824.
A modern hotel in Smithfield, close to the Luas and good pubs.
A lively hostel with private rooms on Smithfield Square.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
Leave the car at home: trains from around the country arrive in the city centre, and the Luas does the rest.
- By train: services from Cork, Limerick, Galway, Westport and Waterford arrive at Heuston; from Sligo, Belfast and Wexford at Connolly.
- By Luas: the Red Line links Heuston and Connolly with the centre, and the Green Line runs through St Stephen’s Green.
- By DART: for Howth, Dalkey, Sandycove and Dún Laoghaire. Use a Leap card or tap a bank card to pay.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
