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The greenway that started a trend
When the Waterford Greenway opened in 2017, it changed what a weekend in the south-east could look like. It follows the old railway line for 46 km between Waterford city and Dungarvan, making it Ireland’s longest greenway, and it’s almost entirely flat and completely free of traffic. Along the way you cross viaducts, ride through a tunnel, pass a workhouse turned café, and finish with the sea opening up in front of you at Dungarvan.
You don’t need to be fit or own a bike. Most people hire bikes at one end, ride one way with plenty of coffee stops and take a shuttle back. Families with children on their own bikes do it all the time.
Riding it: the best bits
The full route takes most people three to four hours of riding, plus stops. If that’s too much, ride the stretch from Kilmacthomas to Dungarvan, about 20 km, which has the best views.
- Mount Congreve: woodland gardens near the Waterford end, with a greenway entrance of their own.
- Kilmeadan: the heritage train of the Waterford and Suir Valley Railway runs alongside the greenway here in season.
- Kilmacthomas: the old workhouse, now home to cafés and shops, and a stone viaduct high over the village.
- The Ballyvoile viaduct: blown up during the Civil War and rebuilt, with wide views of the Comeragh Mountains.
- The tunnel: 400 metres through the hill, cool and slightly spooky, before the final run down to the coast.
- Abbeyside and Dungarvan Harbour: the sea, the causeway and the castle across the water as you finish.
Dungarvan
Dungarvan is a working harbour town with a big square, a castle on the waterfront and a reputation for food that punches well above its size. It’s a relaxed place for an evening: dinner in town, a pint by the harbour and a walk along the quays as the light goes. In spring, the West Waterford Festival of Food brings producers and chefs to town.
Next day, drive or cycle out to Helvick Head in the Waterford Gaeltacht for views across the bay, or spend the morning on Clonea Strand, a long sandy beach just east of town.
The Copper Coast and the Comeraghs
East of Dungarvan, the Copper Coast UNESCO Global Geopark runs along cliffs and coves shaped by ancient volcanoes and 19th-century copper mining. The coast road to Tramore passes small beaches like Bunmahon and Kilmurrin and the old mine engine house at Tankardstown. It’s a beautiful drive for a second day if you have a car.
Inland, the Comeragh Mountains hide Mahon Falls, an 80-metre waterfall reached by an easy walk from the car park. On the road up there’s a famous “magic road” where cars appear to roll uphill. It’s an optical illusion, but everyone tries it anyway.
Waterford city
Ireland’s oldest city deserves a day of its own. The Viking Triangle has three museums telling a thousand years of Waterford’s story, including Reginald’s Tower, and the House of Waterford Crystal shows how the famous glass is blown and cut. Don’t leave without trying a blaa, the soft, floury bread roll that has protected status. In December, the city’s Winterval festival is one of the best Christmas events in the country: see our Christmas markets guide.
Which area to stay in
Dungarvan is the best base if you want to wake up by the sea, finish your ride at the door and spend a day on the Copper Coast. Waterford city has the most choice, the train station and the museums, so it suits a car-free trip. Kilmacthomas, halfway along, has a few guesthouses and is handy if you want to ride the greenway in two halves.
When it rains
The greenway is lovely in light rain (the tunnel is the driest bit), but if it’s lashing, swap your ride day for Waterford city’s museums and the crystal factory, and keep the greenway for tomorrow. Dungarvan’s cafés and pubs are made for sitting out a shower.
A two- or three-night plan
Day one: arrive in Waterford, explore the Viking Triangle and have dinner in the city.
Day two: ride the greenway to Dungarvan with a long lunch in Kilmacthomas, then stay in Dungarvan by the harbour.
Day three: the Copper Coast drive or Mahon Falls, then home.
The May bank holiday and the June bank holiday are ideal for cycling, and the greenway is quiet and lovely in early autumn. For another coastal weekend in the south-east, try the Hook Peninsula.
Frequently asked questions
How long does the Waterford Greenway take to cycle?
The full 46 km takes most people three to four hours of riding, plus stops. Many people ride half, from Kilmacthomas to Dungarvan, and use a shuttle.
Do I need my own bike?
No. Bike hire companies at both ends rent standard bikes, e-bikes and children’s bikes, and most run shuttles so you only ride one way.
Is the Waterford Greenway suitable for children?
Yes. It’s flat, traffic-free and has plenty of stops. Younger children can ride in a trailer or on a tag-along bike from the hire companies.
Which end should I start from?
Starting in Waterford and finishing in Dungarvan means you ride towards the sea, finish with the best views and end up in a town that’s made for a celebratory dinner.
Where we’d stay
Historic hotel on the quays in Waterford city.
Right in Dungarvan, a short ride from the end of the greenway.
A castle on its own island, reached by a small car ferry.
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Getting there
Get the train to Waterford and you can do the whole weekend by bike.
- By car: about two hours from Dublin on the M9, or an hour and a half from Cork.
- By train: Dublin Heuston to Waterford, about two hours.
- On the greenway: bike hire at both ends, with shuttles back so you only ride one way. Buses also connect Waterford city and Dungarvan.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
