A city break with a beach
Many Irish people know Málaga Airport as the gateway to the Costa del Sol and head straight for Torremolinos or Marbella. That’s a mistake. Málaga has become one of the best city breaks in Spain, with excellent museums, a lively old town and a beach a short walk from the centre.
There are flights all year from Dublin and Cork, and seasonal flights from Shannon and Knock, and the local train reaches the centre in around 12 minutes, one of the quickest airport transfers in Europe.
Good for
- Winter sun on the October or February bank holidays
- A city break with a beach
- Plenty of flight choice from Ireland
Not ideal if
- You want cooler weather in July and August
- Easter is your only option and you don’t like crowds
- You want a quiet resort feel
What to see
- The Alcazaba: a Moorish fortress with courtyards and fountains above the city.
- Gibralfaro Castle: walk up for the best view over the port and the bullring.
- The Picasso Museum, in the city where the artist was born.
- The Centre Pompidou Málaga, under a colourful glass cube at the port.
- The cathedral, known locally as La Manquita, the one-armed lady, because one tower was never finished.
On the beach
La Malagueta is the city beach, about ten minutes’ walk from the centre. Go further east to Pedregalejo and El Palo, old fishing neighbourhoods where restaurants grill sardines on skewers over open fires right on the sand. These are called espetos, and you shouldn’t leave without trying them.
Our pick is El Palo over La Malagueta. The city beach is handy, but El Palo is where the beach bars still feel like they’re cooking for locals, with the fishing boats pulled up on the sand beside you.
Tapas and wine
The Atarazanas Market is the place for fresh produce and a quick tapa at the bar. In the evening, wander the old town and stop for fried fish, local cheese and a glass of sweet Málaga wine. El Pimpi, a sprawling bodega near the Roman theatre, is a classic.
What we’d skip: the photo-menu restaurants on the busiest corners off Calle Larios. Two streets back, in the old town, you’ll pay less and eat better, and nobody will be standing outside trying to wave you in.
Day trips
Ronda, perched over a gorge, is about 1 hour 45 minutes by car or train. Nerja and Frigiliana, a white village in the hills, are an easy trip east by bus. The Caminito del Rey, a walkway clinging to a gorge, needs booking ahead and is worth planning a day around.
If you only pick one, make it the Caminito del Rey, as long as you’ve booked. Ronda is the better-known name, but the gorge walk is the day people talk about afterwards.
How to spend three days
On day one, explore the old town. Climb to the Alcazaba, a Moorish fortress with gardens and fountains, then continue up to Gibralfaro Castle for the best view over the port and bullring. Below it, the Roman Theatre sits right in the middle of the city. In the evening, join the locals for a paseo along Calle Larios.
Day two is for art and the port. The Picasso Museum is in a 16th-century palace near the house where he was born, and the Carmen Thyssen Museum shows Spanish painting in another restored palace. The colourful glass cube of the Centre Pompidou sits on Muelle Uno, where you can walk along the palm-lined harbour.
Day three is for the sea. Walk east from La Malagueta to Pedregalejo and El Palo, old fishing districts where beach restaurants grill sardines on skewers over wooden boats filled with sand. These are called espetos, and a plate with a cold beer is about as Málaga as lunch gets.
Weather and tips
Málaga has one of the mildest climates in Europe, which makes it a great choice for the October and February bank holidays when Ireland is grey. July and August are very hot, so visit then only if you plan to spend most of the day near the water.
Try the sweet Málaga wine at the old bar Antigua Casa de Guardia, where your bill is chalked on the counter, and finish dinner with a scoop of the local ice cream. Many shops close for a few hours in the afternoon.
Where to stay
Stay in the historic centre to walk everywhere, or near La Malagueta for the beach. Soho, the arts district near the port, is good value. Easter week, Semana Santa, brings huge processions and full hotels, so book early for the Easter bank holiday.
Good to know before you go
- Book the Caminito del Rey well ahead, as weekend slots sell out.
- Semana Santa closes streets for processions and fills hotels. Great to see, slower to get around.
- Dinner starts late, often after 9pm.
- Many smaller shops close for a few hours in the afternoon.
- In July and August, sightsee in the morning and save the afternoon for the beach.
- The C1 train from the airport is the quickest and cheapest way into town.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get from Málaga Airport to the centre?
Take the C1 local train to María Zambrano or Centro-Alameda, about 12 minutes. Buses also run to the centre.
Is Málaga warm in winter?
Usually mild, often around 17 degrees by day, which makes it a good escape for the St Brigid’s or St Patrick’s weekends.
Is Málaga good for families?
Yes. City beaches, the port, short day trips and lots of outdoor dining suit families well.
Which Irish airports fly to Málaga?
Dublin and Cork have flights all year. Shannon and Knock usually have flights only in certain seasons, so check the current schedule before you plan your trip.
