Why Milan and Lake Como together
Milan on its own is a city of fashion, business and very good aperitivo. Lake Como on its own is mountains falling into deep blue water, with villas and gardens along the shore. Put them together and you get a long weekend with a bit of everything, and the train between them takes about an hour.
Milan has several airports. Linate is closest, with the metro reaching the centre in about 15 minutes. Malpensa and Bergamo are around an hour out, by the Malpensa Express train or by coach. Check which one your flight uses before you compare prices, and add the transfer.
Good for
- City and lake scenery in one trip
- Food, aperitivo and shopping
- Spring and early autumn
Not ideal if
- You’re going in winter, when many lake ferries and villas close
- You’re on a tight budget (both are dear)
- You’d rather not book things like the Last Supper weeks ahead
Milan in a day and a half
Start at the Duomo, the huge Gothic cathedral, and go up to the rooftop terraces, where you walk among the spires with the city below. Book a slot online, and take the lift if the queue for the stairs is long. Next door, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is a glass-roofed shopping arcade from the 1860s, worth walking through even if you’re not buying.
Then walk on past La Scala opera house to the Brera district, with its cobbled streets, small galleries and the Pinacoteca di Brera, one of Italy’s great art collections. The Sforza Castle houses several museums, including Michelangelo’s last, unfinished sculpture.
The Last Supper: book it now
Leonardo’s Last Supper is painted on the wall of the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie, and you see it in a small group for about 15 minutes. Tickets are released in batches and sell out fast, so book on the official site as soon as you have your dates. If you miss out, guided tours that include it are the fallback, at a higher price.
Aperitivo on the Navigli
In the early evening, Milan does aperitivo: a drink, often a spritz or a Negroni, with snacks included. The canals of the Navigli are the classic place for it, lined with bars that spill onto the towpaths. It gets busy, so walk a little further along the Naviglio Grande for a table.
What we’d skip: the cafés right on the Piazza del Duomo. You pay for the view, and the coffee is the same as anywhere else. Stand at the bar of any Milanese café and you’ll pay a fraction.
A day on Lake Como
Take the train from Milano Centrale to Varenna, about an hour, then use the ferries to hop around the middle of the lake. Bellagio, on the point where the lake splits, is the famous one, with steep lanes and gardens. Menaggio is livelier and more practical, and Varenna itself is small and pretty, with a lakeside walkway.
Of the villas, Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo has the best gardens, especially in spring when the azaleas and rhododendrons are out, and Villa del Balbianello at Lenno has the most dramatic setting, on a wooded point over the water. Our advice: base the day around the Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio triangle, and don’t try to cover the whole lake. It’s much bigger than it looks on a map.
Where to stay
In Milan, Brera is the most attractive base, Navigli the liveliest, and the area around Centrale station the most practical for the lake. If you can, spend one night on the lake itself: Varenna or Bellagio in the evening, after the day-trippers leave, is a different place.
A three-night plan
Day one: the Duomo and its rooftop, the Galleria and Brera, then aperitivo on the Navigli.
Day two: the train to Varenna, ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio, and a villa garden. Stay the night on the lake if you can.
Day three: back to Milan for the Last Supper (booked) and the Sforza Castle, with a final dinner in Brera.
When to go
April to June and September to October are best. The May bank holiday is ideal for the lake gardens, and the October bank holiday is usually mild. In winter, many villas close and the ferry timetable is much thinner, so Milan works better than the lake. August is hot, and many Milanese leave the city.
Good to know before you go
- Book the Last Supper as early as you can.
- Check the lake ferry timetable before you go: the last boats can be early outside summer.
- Validate regional train tickets before boarding, or buy them on the app.
- A coperto, or cover charge, on the bill is normal in Italy.
- Coffee at the bar is cheaper than at a table.
- Pickpockets work the Duomo square and the metro, so keep your bag zipped.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the train from Milan to Lake Como?
About an hour from Milano Centrale to Varenna, and around 40 minutes to an hour to Como town, depending on the station and the train.
Which Milan airport is best from Ireland?
Linate is closest to the city, about 15 minutes by metro. Malpensa and Bergamo are around an hour away, so add the cost and time of the transfer when you compare flights.
Can I see Lake Como in a day?
You can see the middle of the lake in a day: Varenna, Bellagio and Menaggio by ferry, plus one villa. Staying one night lets you enjoy it after the day-trippers leave.
Is Milan worth it without Lake Como?
Yes. Two nights covers the Duomo, Brera, the Last Supper and the Navigli. The lake is what makes it a long weekend rather than a city break, but Milan stands on its own.
Do I need to book the Last Supper?
Yes. Visits are in small timed groups and sell out weeks ahead. Book on the official site as soon as you know your dates.
