Why Nice
Nice is the easiest way to do the French Riviera without a car, a yacht or a lottery win. It’s a real city, with a market, an old town and buses full of people going to work, but it sits on a sweeping bay of blue water, and a coastal train will drop you in Villefranche, Monaco or Menton in well under an hour.
Flights from Dublin run year round, with more in summer, so check what’s flying when you want to go. From the airport, tram line 2 runs to the centre and the port in about half an hour, and it’s far cheaper than a taxi.
Good for
- Sunshine and the sea in spring or autumn
- Day trips by train along the coast
- Markets, food and long lunches
Not ideal if
- You want sandy beaches (Nice’s are pebbles)
- You’re on a tight budget in July and August
- You’re hoping for nightlife like Barcelona
The Promenade, the beach and the old town
The Promenade des Anglais runs for about seven kilometres along the bay, and walking it at least once is compulsory. The beach is pebbly, so bring sandals for the water, and choose between the free public stretches and the private beach clubs with sun loungers and lunch.
Behind it, Vieux Nice, the old town, is a tangle of narrow lanes in orange and yellow. The Cours Saleya market sells flowers and food most mornings, and turns into an antiques market on Mondays. Go early, then have a coffee and watch it get busy.
Castle Hill and the museums
Climb Castle Hill (Colline du Château) for the best view in the city, over the bay on one side and the port on the other. There’s no castle left, but there’s a waterfall, a park and, if your legs object, a free lift from the seafront end.
Up in the hills of Cimiez, the Musée Matisse sits among olive trees, and on the way up, the Musée Marc Chagall has his biblical paintings in a light-filled building designed for them. Both are a short bus ride from the centre.
What to eat
Nice has its own food, and it’s cheap. Try socca, a thin chickpea pancake eaten hot from the oven with black pepper, pissaladière, an onion tart with anchovies and olives, and pan bagnat, a salade niçoise in a bun. Lunch is the meal to make a fuss of; a set menu at midday costs much less than dinner.
What we’d skip: the restaurants along the Promenade with photo menus and staff waving you in. Two streets back, in the old town or around the port, the food is better and the bill is smaller.
Day trips along the coast
The coastal train is the Riviera’s best bargain. Villefranche-sur-Mer is about ten minutes away, with a deep, clear bay and a pretty harbour. Monaco is around twenty minutes, and Menton, with its lemon trees and yellow houses, around half an hour. West of Nice, Antibes and Cannes are an easy run too.
For a view, take the bus up to Èze, a medieval village perched over the sea, and walk down the steep Nietzsche path to the station at Èze-sur-Mer. Our pick, if you only do one: Villefranche for a swim and lunch, then Èze for the view. Monaco is interesting for an hour, but it’s busy, expensive and mostly about looking at other people’s cars.
Where to stay
Vieux Nice is the most atmospheric, but can be noisy late at night. The streets between the old town and the Promenade are the most convenient, and Le Port is calmer, with good restaurants. For better value, look around the Jean Médecin area near the main station, which also makes the coastal trains easy.
A three-night plan
Day one: the Cours Saleya market, Vieux Nice and Castle Hill, then a swim and a sunset walk along the Promenade.
Day two: the coastal train to Villefranche, then the bus up to Èze and the walk down to the sea.
Day three: the Matisse museum in Cimiez in the morning, socca for lunch, and the port at sunset.
When to go
May, June and September are ideal: warm enough to swim, without the summer crowds and prices. The May bank holiday and June bank holiday are both good bets. The Nice Carnival takes over the city for about two weeks in February, and winter is mild and sunny, if not beach weather.
Good to know before you go
- Bring sandals or water shoes: the beaches are pebbles, not sand.
- Buy train tickets on the app or at the machine before you board.
- The Monday market on the Cours Saleya is antiques, not food.
- Ask for a carafe d’eau in restaurants for free tap water.
- Many shops and some restaurants close on Sunday or for a long lunch.
- Book hotels early for summer and the Monaco Grand Prix weekend in late May or June.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get from Nice airport to the city?
Tram line 2 runs from both terminals to the city centre and the port in about half an hour. It’s the cheapest option, and buses run along the coast too.
Can I do Monaco as a day trip from Nice?
Yes. The train takes around 20 minutes and runs often. Half a day is enough to see the old town on the rock, the harbour and the casino from outside.
Are the beaches in Nice sandy?
No. They’re pebbles, which keeps the water clear but makes sandals a good idea. For sand, go to Villefranche or the beaches near Antibes.
Do I need a car for a Riviera long weekend?
No. The coastal train links Nice with Villefranche, Monaco, Menton, Antibes and Cannes, and buses reach the hill villages like Èze. A car mostly means looking for parking.
Is Nice good in winter?
It’s mild and often sunny, so it’s good for walking, markets and museums, but too cool for most people to swim. February brings the Carnival.
