Family-friendly Food & drink No car needed Rainy-day options
The perfect two-night city break
Kilkenny packs a remarkable amount into a compact centre. You can walk from the castle to St Canice’s Cathedral in fifteen minutes along the ‘Medieval Mile’, stopping in craft shops, cafés and some of the country’s best-loved pubs along the way.
It’s also on the Dublin–Waterford rail line, so it’s one of the few Irish escapes that genuinely works without a car.
What to see
- Kilkenny Castle: the restored rooms and the free-to-enter parkland on the River Nore.
- St Canice’s Cathedral: climb the 9th-century round tower for views over the rooftops.
- Medieval Mile Museum: a well-told history of the city inside a former church.
- Smithwick’s Experience: the story of Ireland’s oldest ale brand on the site of a medieval abbey.
- Kilkenny Design Centre: Irish craft and design in the castle’s old stables.
Day trips from Kilkenny
Inistioge and Thomastown are pretty river villages twenty minutes away, Jerpoint Abbey has some of the finest medieval stone carving in Ireland, and Dunmore Cave is an atmospheric option if the weather turns.
Walking the Medieval Mile
The thing that makes Kilkenny so easy is that you never need the car. The Medieval Mile runs from the castle down to St Canice’s Cathedral, and almost everything you’ll want is on it or a lane off it. Do it slowly. The lanes, called slips here, were the shortcuts of the medieval town and they’re still the best way to cut between the main streets.
Climb the round tower at St Canice’s if it’s open. It’s one of only two in the country you can go up, the ladders are steep, and the view over the city’s slate roofs is the photo everyone wants. Then walk back past Rothe House, a merchant’s house from the 1590s with a restored garden behind it.
Kilkenny Castle without the queue
The castle park is free and open all day, so go there first thing and enjoy the rose garden while it’s empty. The house tour is self-guided and takes about an hour; the Long Gallery with its painted ceiling is the room people remember. On a busy weekend, book your timed entry online the day before.
Across the road, the old stables are now the Design Centre. Even if you’re not shopping, the courtyard and café are a good place to sit for a while.
Food, pints and a bit of music
Kilkenny punches above its size for food. There’s a Michelin-starred option in Campagne, there’s good casual cooking all along John Street, and the pubs on Parliament Street have real character: Kyteler’s Inn trades on its witch story, but Cleere’s and Tynan’s are where locals actually go.
Smithwick’s started here, and the Smithwick’s Experience on Parliament Street is a decent hour on a wet afternoon. You finish with a pint, which helps.
If you have a third day
Drive twenty minutes south to Inistioge, a postcard village on the River Nore with a long walk through Woodstock Gardens above it. Or head to Thomastown and Jerpoint Abbey, a Cistercian ruin with the best stone carvings in the county. Both are quiet even on bank holidays, which is exactly the point after a busy day in town.
Where to stay
Stay in the centre so you can walk everywhere in the evening. The city fills up for festivals (including the Kilkenny Arts Festival in August and the Cat Laughs comedy festival on the June bank holiday weekend), so book early for those dates.
When it rains
Kilkenny is one of the best places in Ireland for a wet weekend, because almost everything is indoors and close together. Do the castle, the Medieval Mile Museum, Rothe House and the Smithwick’s Experience, then settle into a snug on Parliament Street. Dunmore Cave, 15 minutes north of the city, has guided tours through huge limestone chambers, and the Kilkenny Design Centre’s shops and café are a good place to linger.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive by train, check in and have dinner on John Street, with a pint on Parliament Street after.
Saturday: the castle and its park in the morning, the Medieval Mile to St Canice’s and its round tower, then Rothe House and the Smithwick’s Experience.
Sunday: Jerpoint Abbey and lunch in Inistioge or Thomastown, or a lie-in and a slow walk along the Nore before the train home.
Good to know before you go
- Book the castle’s timed entry online on busy weekends. The park is free and open all day.
- The round tower at St Canice’s closes in high winds and has steep ladders inside, so it’s not for everyone.
- Festival weekends, like the Cat Laughs in June and the Arts Festival in August, fill every room in town. Book early.
- Parking in the centre is limited on Saturdays. Arriving by train saves the hassle.
Frequently asked questions
Can I visit Kilkenny by train?
Yes. Trains from Dublin Heuston take roughly 1 hour 30 minutes, and the station is a short walk from the centre.
Can I get to Kilkenny without a car?
Yes. Trains run from Dublin Heuston and the station is a ten-minute walk from the centre. Once you’re there, everything in the city is walkable.
When is Kilkenny busiest?
The August bank holiday weekend during the Kilkenny Arts Festival, and the Cat Laughs comedy festival around the June bank holiday. Book rooms well ahead for either.
Is Kilkenny good for families?
Yes. The castle park, the Medieval Mile Museum, Dunmore Cave and the river walks all suit children, and the city is compact and easy to get around.
How many nights do you need in Kilkenny?
Two nights is ideal for the city itself. Add a third for Jerpoint Abbey, Inistioge and the Nore valley.
Where we’d stay
On the river, facing the castle, two minutes from High Street.
Central and modern, on a quiet street behind the castle.
Country estate near Thomastown with golf, spa and a starred restaurant.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there without a car
The train station is a short walk from the centre, and the city is small enough to explore on foot.
- Train from Dublin Heuston to Kilkenny, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
- Coaches from Dublin, Waterford and Carlow.
- Taxis and local tours for Jerpoint Abbey, Inistioge and Dunmore Cave.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
