Big houses, bog boardwalks and a mountain range to yourself
Laois is the county people drive through on the M7 without a second glance, which means its best bits stay blissfully quiet. Turn off and you’ll find the Slieve Bloom Mountains, with waterfalls, forest trails and blanket bog; a ruined castle on a rock with views over half of Leinster; one of the great Georgian houses; a garden designed by Edwin Lutyens; and Abbeyleix, one of the prettiest heritage towns in the midlands.
It’s barely an hour from Dublin, with trains to Portlaoise, which makes it perfect for a low-effort weekend. You’ll spend more time walking and less time driving, and you won’t have to fight anyone for a parking space.
The Slieve Bloom Mountains
The Slieve Blooms straddle the border of Laois and Offaly, a rounded range of heather, forest and deep glens that’s never crowded. The best-known walk is the Glenbarrow loop near Rosenallis, which follows the young River Barrow past a three-tiered waterfall, close to where the river rises. For a bigger day, the Slieve Bloom Way loops for about 70 km around the mountains, and there are purpose-built mountain bike trails at Baunreagh. Bring boots: it’s often wet underfoot.
The mountains are a designated nature area and one of the best places in the midlands to spot red grouse, hen harriers and, on summer evenings, the odd bat over the rivers. Walking festivals are held through the year, with guided hikes for all levels, and the local walking groups are very welcoming if you’d rather not head out alone.
The Rock of Dunamase
Just east of Portlaoise, the ruins of a Norman castle crown a limestone rock that rises out of the plain. The Rock of Dunamase has been fortified since early Christian times and was part of the dowry when Aoife MacMurrough married Strongbow in 1170. It’s free, open at all times and a short, steep walk from the car park, with huge views across the midlands. Go for sunset.
Emo Court and Heywood
- Emo Court: a neoclassical mansion designed by James Gandon, the architect of Dublin’s Custom House, with free parkland, a lake walk and an avenue of giant sequoias.
- Heywood Gardens, Ballinakill: a formal garden designed by Edwin Lutyens, with terraces, a sunken garden and a lake. A hidden gem.
- Abbeyleix Bog: a community-run boardwalk across a restored raised bog, full of wildflowers and birdsong in summer.
- Stradbally: a pretty village with a steam museum, and home to the Electric Picnic festival each September.
Abbeyleix and Durrow
Abbeyleix is a planned estate town of wide streets and handsome stone buildings, laid out in the 18th century. Its most famous resident is Morrissey’s, a pub and old grocery that has barely changed in a century: shelves of tins behind the counter, a pot-bellied stove and a proper pint. A few minutes south, Durrow is a lovely village built around a green, with Castle Durrow at one end and the River Erkina running past. It’s a perfect stop for coffee on the way south.
Good to know before you go
- The Slieve Blooms have few facilities, so bring food and water, and download a map, as signal is patchy.
- Emo Court’s parkland is free and open daily, but the house is open for guided tours only on selected days.
- Electric Picnic weekend in early September fills every room for miles around Stradbally. Avoid it unless you’re going.
- Morrissey’s in Abbeyleix keeps traditional pub hours and gets busy at weekends, so go early for a seat by the stove.
When it rains
A rainy day is a good excuse to linger in Morrissey’s. Emo Court’s house tours, the Stradbally Steam Museum and the shops and cafés of Abbeyleix fill a wet afternoon, and Kilkenny is under an hour away.
Where to eat and drink
Laois’s food scene is centred on its market towns: Abbeyleix and Durrow for cafés and pubs, and Portlaoise for the widest choice of restaurants. If you’re staying at Ballyfin, dinner there is the whole evening’s plan.
Which area to stay in
Abbeyleix and Durrow make charming bases in the south of the county. Portlaoise has the station and most hotels, and Mountrath and Rosenallis put you at the foot of the Slieve Blooms. For a once-in-a-lifetime splurge, Ballyfin is one of Ireland’s most celebrated country house hotels.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Abbeyleix, with a pint in Morrissey’s.
Saturday: Glenbarrow and the Slieve Blooms in the morning, then the Rock of Dunamase at sunset.
Sunday: Emo Court and Heywood Gardens on the way home.
Laois is perfect for a short St Brigid’s Day or October bank holiday break. Combine it with Kildare or Birr and Clonmacnoise, just over the Slieve Blooms.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best walk in the Slieve Bloom Mountains?
The Glenbarrow loop is the most popular, following the River Barrow past a waterfall. Allow about two hours, and wear boots, as it can be muddy.
Is the Rock of Dunamase free to visit?
Yes. It’s free and open at all times, with a small car park below the hill and a short, steep path to the ruins.
How far is Laois from Dublin?
About an hour by car to Portlaoise on the M7, or about an hour by train from Dublin Heuston.
Is Laois good for families?
Yes. Emo Court’s parkland, Abbeyleix Bog, the Glenbarrow waterfall and the Stradbally Steam Museum all suit children.
Where we’d stay
A Regency mansion turned luxury hotel at the foot of the Slieve Blooms.
A comfortable hotel on the edge of Abbeyleix, close to the town and the bog.
A modern hotel with a pool on the edge of Portlaoise.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About an hour from Dublin on the M7 or by train.
- By car: about an hour from Dublin to Portlaoise via the M7, or 1 hour 20 minutes to Abbeyleix.
- By train: Dublin Heuston to Portlaoise, about an hour, on the Cork, Limerick and Kildare lines.
- Getting around: you’ll want a car for the Slieve Blooms, Dunamase and the gardens.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
