The quiet county with the best river in the south-east
Carlow is Ireland’s second-smallest county, and most people only see it through a car window on the way to Kilkenny or Wexford. That’s a shame, because the Barrow Valley is one of the loveliest corners of the south-east: a slow, wide river lined with towpaths, stone bridges and lock-keepers’ cottages, running past old mill villages and the Blackstairs Mountains. Add a dolmen with a 150-tonne capstone, some of the best gardens in the country and a castle that’s been lived in by the same family for nearly 400 years, and you have a weekend that feels like a secret.
It’s also close: about an hour and a half from Dublin, and there’s a train to Carlow town in about an hour.
Walking the Barrow Way
The Barrow Way follows the river’s towpath for over 100 km from Lowtown in Kildare to St Mullins, and the Carlow stretch is the prettiest. You don’t need to walk it all. Pick a section between two villages, such as Borris to St Mullins or Leighlinbridge to Bagenalstown, and you’ll pass locks, weirs and wooded banks with barely another soul around. The path is flat and easy, ideal for families and dog walkers, and you can also cycle or kayak parts of the river.
St Mullins, at the southern end, is a magical spot: a tiny village with the ruins of a monastery founded by St Moling in the seventh century, a Norman motte and a riverside pub. Upstream, Borris is a handsome estate village with a 16-arch railway viaduct striding across the valley, and across the river in Kilkenny, Graiguenamanagh is home to the beautifully restored Duiske Abbey.
Brownshill Dolmen
Just 3 km east of Carlow town, Brownshill Dolmen is a portal tomb built around 5,000 years ago, and its granite capstone is estimated to weigh about 150 tonnes, reputed to be the heaviest in Europe. How Neolithic farmers lifted it is anyone’s guess. It’s free, signposted and a short walk from the car park.
Castles and gardens
- Huntington Castle, Clonegal: a 17th-century castle that’s still a family home, with guided tours, gardens and some wonderfully eccentric stories. Check the season before you go.
- Altamont Gardens: a romantic garden around a lake near Tullow, run by the OPW, with woodland walks down to the River Slaney.
- Duckett’s Grove: the dramatic ruin of a Gothic Revival mansion near Carlow town, with two restored walled gardens and woodland. Free entry.
- Carlow town: the remains of Carlow Castle, the County Museum and VISUAL, a striking contemporary arts centre.
Mount Leinster and the Blackstairs
East of the Barrow, the Blackstairs Mountains rise to Mount Leinster, at 795 metres the highest point in Carlow. A road climbs to the Nine Stones viewpoint just below the summit, from where you can see five counties on a clear day, and on breezy weekends hang-gliders and paragliders launch from the slopes. Walkers can follow the South Leinster Way over the hills.
Good to know before you go
- The towpath can be muddy after rain and is shared with cyclists, so wear proper shoes and keep dogs on a lead.
- Huntington Castle and Altamont Gardens keep seasonal hours, so check before you visit outside summer.
- Mount Leinster’s summit road is narrow and exposed, and the top is often in cloud. Save it for a clear day.
- Shops and cafés in Borris and St Mullins are small, so bring water and snacks for a long walk.
When it rains
Head for Carlow County Museum, VISUAL, a tour of Huntington Castle or Duiske Abbey. Kilkenny city, 40 minutes away, has its castle, Rothe House and the Medieval Mile Museum for a longer wet-day plan.
Where to eat and drink
Carlow is a brewing county: O’Hara’s craft beers are made in Bagenalstown, and you’ll find them in pubs all over the valley. Leighlinbridge and Borris have good pub food, St Mullins has a riverside pub perfect after a walk, and Carlow town has the widest choice of restaurants.
Which area to stay in
Stay in Borris or Leighlinbridge to walk the river from your door. Carlow town has the most choice and the train station, and Tullow suits the gardens, Huntington Castle and Mount Leinster.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Leighlinbridge or Borris and have dinner in the village.
Saturday: walk or cycle the Barrow Way from Borris to St Mullins, with a pint by the river at the end.
Sunday: Brownshill Dolmen and Duckett’s Grove, or Mount Leinster if it’s clear, then home.
The Barrow is gorgeous for the May and June bank holidays. For more of the south-east, see Kilkenny or Wicklow.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best walk on the Barrow Way in Carlow?
Borris to St Mullins is the favourite, at about 13 km along a quiet, wooded stretch of river. Leighlinbridge to Bagenalstown is shorter and easier.
How old is Brownshill Dolmen?
It’s a Neolithic portal tomb thought to be around 5,000 years old. Its capstone is estimated at about 150 tonnes.
Can I visit Carlow without a car?
Trains run from Dublin Heuston to Carlow in about an hour, and some stop at Bagenalstown (Muine Bheag) for the river. A car helps for Borris and St Mullins.
Is Carlow good for families?
Yes. The towpath is flat and traffic-free, the dolmen and Duckett’s Grove are free, and Huntington Castle’s stories go down well with older children.
Where we’d stay
A golf and spa resort in Tullow, close to the gardens and the Slaney.
A long-established inn on the River Barrow in Leighlinbridge.
A boutique Georgian hotel on the main street of Borris.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
Under an hour and a half from Dublin, with trains to Carlow town.
- By car: about an hour and a half from Dublin via the M9, or 40 minutes from Kilkenny.
- By train: Dublin Heuston to Carlow, about an hour, with some services stopping at Bagenalstown (Muine Bheag).
- Getting around: a car helps for Borris, St Mullins and the gardens. Bike hire is available in the valley in summer.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
