Two cities in one
Budapest was once separate towns, Buda on the hills and Pest on the plain, joined across the Danube. Today the river runs through the middle of one of Europe’s grandest capitals, lined with palaces, bridges and the enormous Parliament building.
The 100E airport bus runs to Deák Ferenc tér in the centre in around 35 to 40 minutes. Direct flights from Dublin take about three hours.
The thermal baths
Budapest sits on hot springs, and visiting a bath is a must. Széchenyi Baths in City Park is the famous one, with huge outdoor pools that steam on cold mornings. Rudas has a rooftop pool with river views. Some historic baths close for long renovations, so check before you go. Bring flip-flops and a towel, and give yourself at least two hours.
The Buda side
Take the funicular or walk up to Buda Castle and the Castle District. The Fisherman’s Bastion has fairytale turrets and views across the river to Parliament, and Matthias Church, with its tiled roof, is right beside it. Climb Gellért Hill in the evening for a sunset view over the bridges.
The Pest side
- The Hungarian Parliament: book a guided tour to see the Holy Crown.
- The Shoes on the Danube Bank: a moving memorial to Jews killed during the war.
- St Stephen’s Basilica: climb the dome for a view over Pest.
- The Great Market Hall: paprika, salami and lángos, fried bread with toppings.
- The Dohány Street Synagogue, the largest in Europe.
Ruin bars and nightlife
The old Jewish Quarter is home to the ruin bars, pubs set up in abandoned buildings and courtyards, full of mismatched furniture and odd art. Szimpla Kert is the original and the most famous. Visit in the afternoon for a quieter look, or come back at night for the full experience. An evening cruise on the Danube, with the city lit up, is a gentler alternative.
A three-day plan
Begin in Buda. Take the funicular or walk up to Castle Hill for the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and the Fishermen’s Bastion, which has the best view of the Parliament building across the river. Come back down for dinner on the Pest side, then walk along the Danube as the bridges light up.
On day two, spend the morning in the baths. Széchenyi in City Park is the famous yellow one with the outdoor pools, while Gellért is grander and more elegant indoors. Bring flip-flops and a towel, or rent them there. In the afternoon, visit St Stephen’s Basilica and walk down Andrássy Avenue.
Day three can be gentler. Tour the Parliament building, which needs booking ahead, then see the Shoes on the Danube Bank memorial nearby. Walk or take the tram to Margaret Island for gardens and a musical fountain. Finish at the Great Market Hall for paprika, salami and a lángos, a fried bread topped with sour cream and cheese.
Food, money and getting around
Hungary uses the forint. Cards are widely accepted, but as in other cities, avoid the exchange booths in tourist areas and say no when a card machine asks whether you want to be charged in euro, because the rate is worse.
Try goulash, chicken paprikash and chimney cake. For a night out, the ruin bars in the old Jewish Quarter are the city’s most famous, built in old abandoned buildings with mismatched furniture. Trams 2 and 4/6 cover many of the main sights cheaply.
Where to stay
Most visitors stay on the Pest side. District V is central and close to the river, District VII is lively and near the ruin bars, and the streets around Andrássy Avenue are elegant. The Buda side is quieter and suits a calmer weekend. December brings a big Christmas market to Vörösmarty Square.
Frequently asked questions
What currency is used in Budapest?
The Hungarian forint. Cards are accepted almost everywhere, and you should choose to pay in forint rather than euro.
Which thermal bath is best for a first visit?
Széchenyi is the classic, with big outdoor pools. Rudas is smaller and has a rooftop pool with river views.
Is Budapest good for Christmas?
Yes. The Christmas markets at Vörösmarty Square and St Stephen’s Basilica are among the best in Europe.
How do I get from Budapest Airport to the city?
The 100E airport bus runs to Deák Ferenc tér in the centre, taking around 40 minutes. It needs its own ticket, which you can buy by card at the stop. Taxis use a fixed official service from outside arrivals.
