A city of layers
Rome is the kind of place where you round a corner on the way to dinner and find a 2,000-year-old temple. You can’t see it all on a long weekend, so don’t try. Pick one big site a day and leave the rest of the time for wandering, eating and sitting in piazzas.
Direct flights from Dublin land at Fiumicino, and the Leonardo Express train reaches Termini station in about 30 minutes.
Ancient Rome
A combined ticket covers the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill. Book a timed slot before you go, start early to beat the heat, and bring water. The Forum and Palatine are as impressive as the Colosseum, yet many visitors rush them. Give yourself a full morning.
Afterwards, walk to the Pantheon, still standing after almost 1,900 years.
The Vatican
The Vatican Museums and the Sistine Chapel need booking well in advance, and early entry is worth paying for. St Peter’s Basilica is free, but the security queue can be long, so go first thing. Climb the dome for a view over the whole city.
Piazzas and fountains
- The Trevi Fountain: go early in the morning or late at night to see it without the crowds.
- Piazza Navona: Bernini’s fountains in a square built on an ancient stadium.
- The Spanish Steps, best seen at dawn.
- Campo de’ Fiori for its morning market.
- The Villa Borghese gardens and the Borghese Gallery, which needs a timed booking.
Eating in Rome
Roman cooking is simple and brilliant. Try the four classic pastas: carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana and gricia. Eat supplì, fried rice balls, as a snack, and have pizza by the slice from a bakery. Avoid restaurants with photo menus near the big sights. Trastevere and Testaccio are full of good trattorias where Romans actually eat.
Planning your days
Day one is for ancient Rome. Book a combined ticket for the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill, and start early before the heat and the tour groups. The Forum is easy to rush, so take your time. In the evening, cross into Monti, a lively neighbourhood of wine bars and small trattorias.
On day two, go to the Vatican. The museums are vast, so pick a route that ends in the Sistine Chapel, then visit St Peter’s Basilica. Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, or you may be turned away. Afterwards, walk along the Tiber to Castel Sant’Angelo.
Day three is for wandering. Start at the Pantheon, which is free or cheap to enter and astonishing inside, then drift to Piazza Navona and the Trevi Fountain. Throw a coin over your shoulder if you want to come back. In the afternoon, cross to Trastevere for cobbled streets, ivy-covered houses and dinner outdoors.
Practical tips
Rome is best explored on foot, but the cobbles are hard work, so bring comfortable shoes. Fill your water bottle at the nasoni, the free drinking fountains found all over the city. The water is cold, clean and free.
Avoid restaurants with picture menus and staff calling you in from the street. Walk a couple of streets back from any big sight and the prices fall while the food gets better. Coffee drunk standing at the bar costs much less than the same coffee at a table.
Where to stay
The Centro Storico puts you within walking distance of most sights. Trastevere is atmospheric and lively at night. Monti, near the Colosseum, is a good mix of value and charm. Hotels near Termini are cheaper and handy for the airport train but less pleasant at night.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do I need in Rome?
Three full days covers the main sights at a comfortable pace. Four lets you add a day trip or a slower day.
When is it too hot to visit Rome?
July and August are often above 35 degrees. Spring and autumn bank holidays are much more comfortable.
Do I need to book the Colosseum in advance?
Yes. Timed tickets sell out, especially at weekends and holidays, so book online before you travel.
Is it worth booking skip-the-line tickets in Rome?
Yes, for the Colosseum and the Vatican Museums. Both sell timed tickets on their official websites, and on a bank holiday weekend the queues without one can take hours.
