Barcelona’s relaxed cousin
Valencia has sunshine, a beach, a beautiful old town and remarkable modern architecture, but it feels less crowded and less expensive than Barcelona. It’s flat, easy to cycle and a great choice for a spring or autumn bank holiday.
Metro lines 3 and 5 connect the airport to the centre in around 25 minutes.
The Turia Gardens
After a devastating flood in 1957, Valencia diverted its river and turned the old riverbed into a park about 9 kilometres long. The Turia Gardens curve around the city with paths, playgrounds, sports pitches and orange trees. Hire a bike and ride its length to the City of Arts and Sciences.
The City of Arts and Sciences
This complex of white, futuristic buildings by Santiago Calatrava looks like it landed from another planet. Inside you’ll find a science museum, a planetarium cinema and the Oceanogràfic, Europe’s largest aquarium, which makes a great half day with children. Even if you don’t go in, walking among the buildings is free and very photogenic.
The old town
- The cathedral, which claims to hold the Holy Grail, and the Miguelete tower for views.
- La Lonja de la Seda, the old silk exchange, a UNESCO-listed Gothic building.
- The Central Market, one of the largest food markets in Europe, in a stunning Art Nouveau hall.
- El Carmen, a neighbourhood of street art, small bars and winding streets.
- The Torres de Serranos, old city gates you can climb.
Real paella
Paella was born in the rice fields around Valencia, and here it’s a lunch dish, not dinner. The traditional version contains chicken, rabbit and green beans rather than seafood. Head to the beachfront restaurants at Malvarrosa, or take a trip to El Palmar in the Albufera nature park, where the rice is grown, and finish with a boat trip on the lagoon at sunset.
Also try horchata, a sweet drink made from tiger nuts, with fartons, long sugary pastries for dipping.
A three-day plan
On day one, walk the old town. Visit the cathedral, which claims to hold the Holy Grail, and climb the Micalet bell tower for a view over the rooftops. The Central Market is one of the biggest and most beautiful food markets in Europe, so arrive hungry. Across the road, the Lonja de la Seda, the old silk exchange, is a UNESCO site.
Day two is for the Turia Gardens and the City of Arts and Sciences. Hire a bike and ride the old riverbed from end to end, stopping at the Gulliver playground if you have children. At the far end, visit the Oceanogràfic aquarium or the science museum, then come back at dusk when the white buildings glow.
On day three, head for the sea. Take the tram to Malvarrosa beach, then walk to the old fishermen’s quarter of El Cabanyal, with its tiled houses and local bars. Have paella for lunch, never for dinner, as locals do. In the afternoon, Ruzafa is the place for cafés, vintage shops and an evening drink.
Beyond the city
Albufera Natural Park, south of the city, is where the rice for paella is grown. Take the bus to El Palmar, eat a traditional paella valenciana with chicken and rabbit, and take a boat trip across the lagoon at sunset.
Try horchata, a cold drink made from tiger nuts, served with long sweet pastries called fartons for dipping. The Metrovalencia line from the airport reaches the centre in about 25 minutes.
When to go and where to stay
Las Fallas, from 15 to 19 March, is an extraordinary festival of giant sculptures, fireworks and bonfires, and it lands right on St Patrick’s weekend. It’s loud and crowded, and hotels book up months ahead. For a calmer trip, aim for May, June or October. Stay in the old town or Ruzafa, a lively district full of restaurants and bars.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get from Valencia Airport to the city?
Metro lines 3 and 5 run from the airport to the centre in about 25 minutes.
When is Las Fallas?
Las Fallas peaks from 15 to 19 March each year, with the burning of the sculptures on the final night.
Is Valencia good for a beach weekend?
Yes. Malvarrosa and Las Arenas beaches are a short tram ride from the centre, and the sea is warm from June to October.
When is Las Fallas in Valencia?
Las Fallas is held each year from 15 to 19 March, with giant sculptures, fireworks and huge crowds. It often overlaps with St Patrick’s weekend, so book early if you want to go, or choose another weekend for a quiet trip.
