Short escape · Co. Westmeath

Athlone and Lough Ree: A Midlands Long Weekend on the Shannon

Ireland's oldest pub, a castle on the river and a lake full of islands, right in the middle of the country.

From Dublin
About 1 hour 20 minutes
Ideal stay
2 nights
Best for
Couples, Cyclists, History lovers
County
Westmeath
Athlone and Lough Ree: A Midlands Long Weekend on the Shannon

Family-friendly Food & drink No car needed Walking

The town everyone drives past

For years most of us knew Athlone as a sign on the motorway between Dublin and Galway. That’s a pity, because it’s one of the most rewarding midlands towns for a weekend. The Shannon runs right through the middle, the west bank has a tangle of old lanes known as the Left Bank, and Lough Ree opens up just north of the bridge.

Being in the centre of the country also means short journeys from almost anywhere. From Dublin, Galway or Limerick you can be here in well under two hours, which leaves more of the weekend for actually relaxing.

A pint in Sean’s Bar

Sean’s Bar, tucked behind the castle, claims to be the oldest pub in Ireland, with a history said to go back over a thousand years. Whatever the exact age, it looks the part: sawdust on the floor, a fire in winter, a beer garden by the river and traditional music most nights. Go in the afternoon if you want a seat, because by nine o’clock on a bank holiday Saturday it’s elbow to elbow.

Athlone Castle and the Left Bank

Athlone Castle guards the river crossing that made the town important. Inside, a well-designed visitor centre tells the story of the Siege of Athlone in 1691, when the bridge was fought over in one of the bloodiest battles in Irish history. It’s interactive enough to keep children interested on a wet morning.

After the castle, wander the streets around it. The Left Bank has independent shops and cafés, and the domes of the Church of Saints Peter and Paul rise over the river beside the bridge.

Out on Lough Ree

Lough Ree is one of the biggest lakes on the Shannon, dotted with small islands, some with the ruins of early monasteries. Viking-themed boat tours run from the town centre in a replica longboat, and the crew put on a good show for children. In summer you can also hire a day boat or a kayak and explore the sheltered bays near Glasson.

Glasson itself is a pretty village about ten minutes north, known as the village of the roses, with lakeside restaurants. Book a table for sunset.

Clonmacnoise

About half an hour south, Clonmacnoise is one of Ireland’s most important early Christian sites. St Ciarán founded a monastery here in the sixth century on a bend of the Shannon, and the ruins include round towers, a cathedral and some of the finest high crosses in the country. The original crosses are kept in the visitor centre to protect them from the weather. Give yourself two hours, and go early to beat the tour coaches.

On the bike

Athlone is the western end of the Old Rail Trail, a flat greenway along a disused railway line to Mullingar, about 40 kilometres away. You don’t need to do the whole thing. Hire a bike in town and ride out towards Moate and back for an easy half day.

  • Flat and traffic-free, so it suits families and less confident cyclists.
  • Cafés and pubs in villages along the way for a lunch stop.
  • Bike hire in Athlone, with e-bikes available.

When to go

Summer is the best time to be on the water, and the June bank holiday is often a good balance of weather and crowds. Athlone also does a lively Christmas, with lights over the river and festive events in town.

When it rains

Athlone Castle’s visitor centre is ideal on a wet morning, and the Luan Gallery on the riverbank has changing exhibitions of Irish art. Then it’s time for a pint by the fire in Sean’s Bar. The Clonmacnoise visitor centre, half an hour away, also keeps you dry while you see the original high crosses.

Where to stay

Stay in the town centre, near the castle and the Left Bank, to walk to the pubs and restaurants. Glasson and the shores of Lough Ree are quieter and more romantic, with lakeside hotels and restaurants.

A two-night plan

Friday: arrive by train, wander the Left Bank and finish in Sean’s Bar.

Saturday: Athlone Castle in the morning, a Lough Ree boat trip, and dinner in Glasson at sunset.

Sunday: Clonmacnoise early, or the Old Rail Trail by bike, before heading home.

Good to know before you go

  • Sean’s Bar is busiest on Saturday nights. Go in the afternoon for a seat.
  • Book a table in Glasson for sunset on summer weekends.
  • Clonmacnoise has no regular bus from Athlone, so take a taxi or a tour without a car.

Frequently asked questions

Is Sean’s Bar really the oldest pub in Ireland?

It’s widely recognised as the oldest pub in Ireland. Exact dates are debated, but it’s well worth a visit either way.

Can I get to Athlone by train?

Yes. Athlone is on the main Dublin to Galway and Westport lines, with trains from Heuston taking about 1 hour 30 minutes. The station is a short walk from the centre.

How far is Clonmacnoise from Athlone?

About 30 minutes by car. There’s no regular public bus, so take a taxi or a tour if you don’t have a car.

Is Athlone good for families?

Yes. The castle’s visitor centre, the Viking boat trips on Lough Ree and the flat Old Rail Trail greenway all suit children.

Where we’d stay

Sheraton Athlone Hotel Mid-range

Central, with a pool and views over the town from the upper floors.

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Radisson Blu Hotel Athlone Mid-range

On the riverbank, a minute from the castle and Sean's Bar.

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Wineport Lodge Splurge

A lakeside hideaway near Glasson, with a fine restaurant on the water.

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Getting there without a car

Athlone has fast trains and coaches from Dublin and Galway, and the centre is easy on foot.

  • Train from Dublin Heuston to Athlone, about 1 hour 30 minutes.
  • Express coaches on the Dublin to Galway route.
  • Bike hire for the Old Rail Trail greenway, and boat tours from the town centre.

Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.

Where to stay

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