Family-friendly Rainy-day options Walking
Telescopes, monks and the Shannon
Offaly sits bang in the middle of Ireland, and it has two of the most remarkable sights in the country. In Birr, a castle garden holds what was once the largest telescope on Earth. On the banks of the Shannon, Clonmacnoise was one of the great monastic cities of early Christian Europe. Add whiskey in Tullamore, the Slieve Bloom Mountains and a sculpture park on a cut-away bog, and Offaly makes a fascinating, unhurried weekend. It’s also central enough that nowhere in the country is much more than two and a half hours away.
Birr Castle and the Leviathan
In 1845, the third Earl of Rosse built a telescope in his garden in Birr. Known as the Leviathan, it was the largest telescope in the world until 1917, and through it he discovered the spiral structure of galaxies. Today the restored telescope stands in the grounds of Birr Castle Demesne, alongside an exhibition on the family’s science, a lake, waterfalls, rare trees, formal gardens with towering box hedges, and an adventure playground and treehouse that children adore. The castle itself is still a family home, with tours on selected dates in summer.
Birr is a lovely Georgian town too, with tree-lined malls and handsome terraces, and it’s small enough to see on foot. Look out for John’s Mall and Oxmantown Mall, two of the finest Georgian streets outside Dublin.
Clonmacnoise
Founded by St Ciarán in the sixth century on a bend of the Shannon, Clonmacnoise grew into a great centre of learning, with scholars coming from across Europe. Today you’ll find the ruins of a cathedral, seven churches, two round towers and three superb high crosses, including the Cross of the Scriptures (the originals are in the visitor centre, with replicas outside). Arrive early or late in the day for the best light and fewer coach tours. It’s about 40 minutes from Birr.
The Shannon Callows
Between Shannonbridge and Banagher, the Shannon spills over its banks each winter onto the Callows, wide water meadows that are among the most important wetlands in Europe. In spring and summer they’re full of wildflowers and wading birds, and you might hear the rare corncrake. Banagher, a riverside town with a marina, is a lovely spot for a riverside walk or a boat trip.
Bogs, boats and whiskey
- Lough Boora Discovery Park: a former industrial bog turned into a parkland of lakes, cycle trails and huge outdoor sculptures. Hire a bike and explore.
- Shannonbridge: a riverside village with Napoleonic-era fortifications, close to Clonmacnoise and the Shannon Callows.
- Tullamore DEW Visitor Centre: whiskey history and tastings in a canal-side bonded warehouse in Tullamore.
- The Grand Canal: flat towpath walks and cycles between Tullamore and the Shannon.
The Slieve Blooms from Kinnitty
North-east of Birr, the village of Kinnitty is the gateway to the Offaly side of the Slieve Bloom Mountains, with forest walks, waterfalls and the scenic road over the Cut, a mountain pass with views across the midlands. The Slieve Bloom Way passes nearby if you want a longer hike.
Good to know before you go
- Birr Castle Demesne is open year-round, but the castle itself only opens for tours on selected summer dates.
- Clonmacnoise gets busy with coach tours in the middle of the day in summer. Arrive at opening or late afternoon.
- Lough Boora has bike hire in season. Check before you go if you want to cycle the sculpture trails.
- Book the Tullamore DEW tour ahead at weekends, and nominate a driver.
When it rains
Birr’s science exhibition, the Clonmacnoise visitor centre and the Tullamore DEW tour all keep you dry. Athlone, 30 minutes from Clonmacnoise, has its castle and plenty of cafés and pubs.
Where to eat and drink
Birr has a good choice of cafés, pubs and restaurants around Emmet Square and Main Street. Tullamore is the county’s biggest town, with the most choice. On the river, Shannonbridge’s pubs are a great stop after Clonmacnoise.
Which area to stay in
Birr is the best base, with the castle on your doorstep and good hotels. Tullamore has the train station and suits the distillery and canal. Self-catering in Kinnitty or along the Shannon is ideal for a quieter stay.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Birr and stroll the Georgian streets.
Saturday: Birr Castle Demesne in the morning, then Clonmacnoise and Shannonbridge in the afternoon.
Sunday: Lough Boora by bike or the Slieve Blooms from Kinnitty, then home via Tullamore.
Offaly is a great choice for the Easter and October bank holidays. Combine it with Athlone and Lough Ree or Laois and the Slieve Blooms.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Leviathan at Birr Castle?
A giant telescope built in 1845 by the third Earl of Rosse. It was the largest in the world until 1917, and it’s been restored in the castle grounds.
How long do you need at Clonmacnoise?
Allow one and a half to two hours to see the visitor centre, the high crosses, the churches and the round towers.
Is Offaly good for families?
Yes. Birr Castle’s treehouse and playground, the bike trails at Lough Boora and the Grand Canal towpath are all great with children.
Can I visit Offaly without a car?
Trains run from Dublin Heuston to Tullamore in about an hour. You’ll need a car or a tour to reach Birr, Clonmacnoise and Lough Boora.
Where we’d stay
A historic coaching inn on Emmet Square in the middle of Birr.
A Georgian house hotel with a pool and spa in Birr.
A modern hotel with a leisure centre in Tullamore, close to the station.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About an hour and three-quarters from Dublin, with trains to Tullamore.
- By car: about an hour and three-quarters from Dublin to Birr via the M7, or an hour and a quarter to Tullamore via the M6.
- By train: Dublin Heuston to Tullamore, about an hour, on the Galway and Westport lines.
- Getting around: you’ll need a car for Birr, Clonmacnoise and Lough Boora.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
