Family-friendly Rainy-day options Walking
A county that’s one-third water
Fermanagh is Ireland’s lakeland, a county where about a third of the map is water, and the best way to see it is slowly: from a boat, a kayak or a lakeside path. Enniskillen, the county town, sits on an island between Upper and Lower Lough Erne, and around it lie monastic islands with round towers, strange carved stone figures, underground rivers and a boardwalk that climbs a mountain bog.
It’s about two hours from Dublin and blissfully uncrowded. Remember it’s Northern Ireland, so prices are in pounds sterling.
Enniskillen
Start at Enniskillen Castle, with its distinctive Watergate on the river and two museums inside, the Fermanagh County Museum and the Inniskillings Museum. The town has a good main street for shops and cafés, and boat trips on Lower Lough Erne leave from the Round O jetty in season.
The islands of Lough Erne
- Devenish Island: a monastic settlement founded in the sixth century, with one of the finest round towers in Ireland. A small ferry runs from Trory jetty in season.
- Boa Island: in Caldragh graveyard stands the Janus figure, a two-faced stone carving thought to date from the early Christian period. It’s eerie and wonderful.
- White Island: a ruined church with a row of mysterious carved figures set into the wall, reached by ferry from Castle Archdale in season.
- Castle Archdale Country Park: lakeside walks, cycling, a wartime flying boat base museum and the ferry to White Island.
Marble Arch Caves and the Cuilcagh Boardwalk
Under the hills west of Enniskillen, the Marble Arch Caves are a show cave with an underground river. The guided tour takes about 75 minutes and starts with a short boat trip through the caves, followed by a walk past waterfalls and stalactites. The caves are now open all year, and booking ahead online is recommended. There are 154 steps in and out, so it isn’t suitable for buggies or wheelchairs.
Close by, the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, nicknamed the Stairway to Heaven, climbs across protected blanket bog to a staircase up the side of Cuilcagh Mountain, with huge views across Fermanagh and Cavan. It’s open daily in daylight, but it’s exposed and the steps are steep, so wear boots and check the weather. The walk is about 11 km there and back from the car park.
Big houses and Belleek
Fermanagh has two of the National Trust’s finest houses: Castle Coole, a neoclassical mansion just outside Enniskillen, and Florence Court, with its walled garden and forest walks near the caves. Up at the far end of Lower Lough Erne, Belleek Pottery, the oldest working pottery in Ireland, founded in 1857, runs tours of its workshops.
On the water
Hire a day boat or a cabin cruiser to explore the lakes (no licence is needed for the cruisers, and you get a lesson before you set off), or paddle part of the Lough Erne canoe trail. The Shannon-Erne Waterway links Fermanagh with Leitrim and the Shannon, if you fancy a longer adventure.
Good to know before you go
- Island ferries, boat trips and some attractions run mainly from Easter to September, so check before you travel in the shoulder months.
- The Marble Arch Caves can close after heavy rain if the underground river rises. Ring or check online on the morning of your visit.
- Cuilcagh is exposed, and the top section of the boardwalk is a long staircase. Bring layers, even in summer.
- Fermanagh is a big county with slow lakeside roads, so don’t try to fit everything into one day.
When it rains
The caves are perfect on a wet day (you’ll be underground anyway), and the castle museums, Castle Coole, Florence Court and Belleek Pottery all have indoor tours. Enniskillen’s cafés and pubs do the rest.
Which area to stay in
Enniskillen has the most hotels, restaurants and pubs, and is the hub for boat trips. For a lakeside escape, look at hotels and lodges around Lower Lough Erne, near Killadeas and Castle Archdale. For the caves and Cuilcagh, self-catering around Florence Court or Belcoo is ideal.
A three-night plan
Friday: arrive in Enniskillen and have dinner in town.
Saturday: the castle in the morning, then the ferry to Devenish and a lakeside afternoon.
Sunday: the Marble Arch Caves and the Cuilcagh Boardwalk, with Florence Court in between.
Monday: Boa Island and Belleek on a loop around Lower Lough Erne, or Castle Coole on the way home.
The June and August bank holidays are ideal for the islands and boats, which run mainly in summer. For more lakes, Carrick-on-Shannon is under an hour away.
Frequently asked questions
Are the Marble Arch Caves open all year?
Yes, the caves now open all year. The guided tour, including a short boat trip, takes about 75 minutes. Book online in advance, especially at weekends.
How long is the Cuilcagh Boardwalk walk?
About 11 km there and back from the car park, including the boardwalk and the steep staircase near the top. Allow three to four hours.
Do I need a licence to hire a boat on Lough Erne?
No licence is needed to hire a cabin cruiser in Fermanagh. The hire company gives you training before you set off.
Can I get to Fermanagh without a car?
There’s no railway, but buses run from Dublin and Belfast to Enniskillen. You’ll need a car or a tour to reach the caves and islands.
Where we’d stay
Five-star resort and spa on its own peninsula, with lake views from most rooms.
On the shore of Lough Erne, a short walk from Enniskillen town.
A Victorian country house hotel on Lower Lough Erne near Killadeas.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About two hours from Dublin by car. There’s no railway in Fermanagh, but coaches run to Enniskillen.
- By car: about two hours from Dublin via the N3 through Cavan.
- By coach: services run from Dublin and Belfast to Enniskillen bus station.
- Getting around: you’ll want a car for the caves and the lough shore. Ferries to Devenish and White Island run in season.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
