Coast & beaches Food & drink Walking
A town that punches above its size
Kenmare sits at the head of Kenmare Bay, where the Ring of Kerry and the Ring of Beara meet. It’s a small town of painted shopfronts laid out in a neat triangle of streets, and it has more good restaurants than towns three times its size. Most people pass through on the Ring of Kerry. The ones who stay a few nights tend to come back.
It’s a long drive from Dublin, so this is a weekend for a bank holiday with an extra day of leave tacked on. Arrive on Friday night, give Saturday to the Beara Peninsula and Sunday to the bay and the town, then drive home on Monday without rushing.
Driving the Ring of Beara
The Beara Peninsula is shared between Kerry and Cork, and it’s wilder and emptier than its famous neighbour. The full loop from Kenmare is about 140 kilometres, but give it a whole day because you’ll stop constantly.
Head west along the northern shore through Tuosist and Ardgroom, then on to Eyeries, a village of brightly painted houses that looks almost too pretty to be real. Allihies, near the tip, has a copper mining museum in an old chapel and a beach of crushed quartz. Come back along the southern side through Castletownbere, one of Ireland’s busiest fishing ports, and have chowder in a pub on the square.
Two moments worth planning for
- The Dursey Island cable car: Ireland’s only cable car swings out over a narrow sound to an island with a handful of residents and no shops. It carries only a few people at a time, so expect a wait on busy days and check opening times before you set off.
- The Healy Pass: a road of hairpin bends that climbs over the spine of the peninsula between Lauragh and Adrigole. On a clear day the view back over the Kerry side is one of the best in the country. Take it slowly and leave room for cyclists.
Out on Kenmare Bay
On your second day, get on the water. Seafari runs cruises from Kenmare Pier that pass colonies of harbour seals lying out on the rocks, and with luck you’ll spot white-tailed eagles too. It’s an easy, gentle trip that suits children and grandparents alike.
Back on land, walk out to the Kenmare stone circle, a short stroll from the town centre. It’s one of the largest in the south west, ringed by trees and surprisingly peaceful. Then wander the lanes and craft shops, including the lace centre that keeps alive a tradition started by local nuns in the 1860s.
Walks for every pace
The Beara Way is a long-distance trail around the whole peninsula, but you can walk short stretches of it. The section around Glanmore Lake is a gentle option. For something bigger, Gleninchaquin Park, about twenty minutes from town, has marked trails up past a waterfall into a glacial valley. It’s privately run, so there’s a small entry charge.
Eating in Kenmare
Food is a big part of why people come. Henry Street and Main Street are lined with restaurants serving Kerry lamb and seafood from the bay, from casual bistros to proper tasting menus. Book dinner for Saturday before you leave home, because bank holiday weekends fill quickly. Grab coffee and something sweet from a bakery in the morning and sit by the green in the middle of town.
When to go
May and June are ideal, with long evenings, rhododendrons in bloom and fewer coaches than July and August. September is lovely too. In winter the town quietens down and some restaurants close midweek, but a cosy October bank holiday with a fire and a long walk has its own appeal.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kenmare on the Ring of Kerry?
Yes. Kenmare is one of the main towns on the Ring of Kerry and the starting point for the Ring of Beara, so you can do either drive from here.
Do I need a car for Kenmare?
Realistically, yes. There’s a local bus from Killarney, but the Beara Peninsula, the Healy Pass and Dursey Island are only practical with your own car.
How long does the Ring of Beara take?
Allow a full day. The driving alone is about 3 to 4 hours, but with stops in Eyeries, Allihies and the Dursey cable car you’ll want 7 or 8 hours.
Where we’d stay
A friendly boutique hotel a short walk from the town centre.
Right in the heart of town, with a busy bar and good food.
Classic country house on the bay, with a celebrated spa.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there without a car
Kenmare can be reached by public transport, but you’ll need a car or a tour for the peninsula.
- Train from Dublin Heuston to Killarney, about 3 hours 15 minutes, usually with a change at Mallow.
- Local bus from Killarney to Kenmare, about 45 minutes, a few times a day.
- Bike hire in Kenmare for short rides along the bay.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
