Coast & beaches Family-friendly Food & drink Walking
Ireland’s fjord
Killary Harbour is one of those places that makes people pull the car in and just stare. A long, narrow arm of the Atlantic, about 16 km long, it cuts inland along the border between Galway and Mayo, with mountains rising straight out of the water on both sides. It’s usually called Ireland’s only fjord (geologists argue about that, and about Carlingford and Lough Swilly, but you’ll be too busy looking to care).
At its head sits Leenane, a tiny village with a couple of pubs, a hotel and a view that hasn’t changed much since The Field was filmed here in 1990. It’s the perfect base for a weekend of boat trips, mountain walks, mussels and very little phone signal.
Out on the water
The Killary Fjord boat tour leaves from Nancy’s Point, just west of Leenane, on a covered catamaran with a bar and a café. The cruise takes about 90 minutes, sailing out towards the open sea past the mussel and salmon farms, with a commentary on the history and wildlife. Sailings run from April to December, typically at 12:30 and 14:30 in the main season and once a day in November and December, so check and book ahead. Dolphins are often seen in the harbour, but they don’t follow timetables.
If you’d rather be on the water under your own steam, Killary Adventure Centre near Leenane runs kayaking, sailing and other activities, and is a great option for families and groups.
The Doolough Pass and Delphi
Drive north from Leenane, past the tumbling Aasleagh Falls, and take the road through the Doolough Pass towards Louisburgh. It’s one of the most beautiful and haunting drives in Ireland: a silent valley of black lakes and bare mountains. A simple stone cross remembers the people who died here in 1849, during the Famine, after being turned away from help in Delphi. The annual Doolough Famine Walk retraces their route.
Halfway along, the Delphi valley is wooded, sheltered and gorgeous, with lakes, salmon rivers and walks of every length. On the other side rises Mweelrea, at 814 metres the highest mountain in Connacht. It’s a serious climb that should only be done in good weather by experienced walkers, but the views from the lower slopes are spectacular too.
Kylemore and Connemara National Park
Twenty minutes south-west of Leenane, Kylemore Abbey is the fairytale castle you’ve seen on a hundred postcards, with a Gothic church and a beautiful Victorian walled garden. A little further on, Connemara National Park at Letterfrack has free walking trails, including the climb up Diamond Hill, which rewards about two to three hours of effort with views over the Twelve Bens, the islands and the coast.
Mussels and pints
Killary mussels are grown on ropes in the harbour, and you’ll find them on menus all around the area. In summer, look out for the Misunderstood Heron, a food truck on the N59 beside the fjord, west of Leenane, that has become a destination in its own right for its seafood and views. Back in Leenane, the pubs do good chowder and a warm fire, which is exactly what you need after a day on the hills.
Walks for every level
- The Killary famine road: a green road along the south shore of the harbour, flat, quiet and easy to follow from the western end near Rosroe.
- Delphi woods and lakes: sheltered paths around the valley floor, good in rough weather.
- Diamond Hill: the most popular climb in Connemara, on a well-made path with a summit loop.
- Mweelrea: for experienced hillwalkers only, with navigation skills and a clear forecast.
When it rains
It will rain, at least a bit. Kylemore Abbey’s house and church, the Connemara National Park visitor centre, the boat tour (it’s covered) and a long lunch are your friends. Westport, about 35 minutes north, has shops, cafés and pubs for a wet afternoon.
Which area to stay in
Leenane puts you at the head of the fjord with the boat tour five minutes away. Delphi is wilder and quieter, ideal if you want to walk straight out of the door. Renvyle and Letterfrack, to the south-west, are handy for Kylemore and the national park. Choice is limited, so book early for summer and bank holiday weekends.
A three-night plan
Friday: drive in through Maam Cross or Westport, arriving in time for a pint as the light goes on the water.
Saturday: the morning cruise, then the Doolough Pass and a walk in Delphi.
Sunday: Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park and Kylemore Abbey in the afternoon.
Monday: the famine road along the fjord or the Aasleagh Falls on the way home.
Killary is at its best for the May and June bank holidays, when the boats are running and the evenings are long. Combine it with Connemara and Clifden or Westport and Achill for a longer trip.
Frequently asked questions
Is Killary Harbour really a fjord?
It’s usually described as Ireland’s only fjord, carved by glaciers in the last Ice Age. Some geologists argue for others, like Carlingford Lough and Lough Swilly, but Killary looks the part best.
When does the Killary boat tour run?
The Killary Fjord cruise runs from April to December. The trip takes about 90 minutes from Nancy’s Point near Leenane. Check the operator’s timetable and book ahead.
How long does it take to climb Diamond Hill?
Most people take two to three hours for the summit loop from the Connemara National Park visitor centre at Letterfrack.
Do I need a car for Killary?
Yes, realistically. Public transport to Leenane is very limited, and the best sights are spread out along mountain roads.
Where we’d stay
A historic country house hotel by the sea at Renvyle, about 25 minutes away.
A hotel, spa and adventure centre deep in the Delphi valley.
An old coaching inn right on the water at the head of the fjord.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there
About three and a half hours from Dublin. You’ll want a car out here.
- By car: from Dublin via the M6 to Galway, then through Oughterard and Maam Cross, or via the N5 to Westport and south through Delphi.
- By public transport: trains run to Galway and Westport, but onward buses to Leenane are limited, so you’ll need a car or a tour for the area.
- Nearby: Westport is about 35 minutes north and Clifden about 40 minutes south-west.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
