Family-friendly No car needed Rainy-day options Walking
Why Killarney still works
Killarney has been welcoming visitors since Victorian times, and it shows: there are more hotel beds here than in most Irish cities, the jarveys still wait with their jaunting cars outside the cathedral, and on a bank holiday the main street is buzzing. Some people find it a bit much. We think it’s the best base in Kerry for a short break, because you don’t need to drive anywhere to be in genuinely spectacular scenery.
Killarney National Park begins at the edge of town. Within twenty minutes’ walk you can be beside Lough Leane with the mountains behind it, and that’s hard to beat.
A day in the national park
Start at Muckross House, a Victorian mansion with gardens running down to the lake, and the traditional farms next door that recreate rural life in the 1930s and 40s. From there, it’s a short trip to Torc Waterfall, which is at its most impressive after rain. Ross Castle, a 15th-century tower house on the lakeshore, is a lovely spot for a walk at the end of the day, and boats leave from the pier for trips across the lake.
- Muckross House, gardens and traditional farms: easy to spend half a day.
- Torc Waterfall: a short walk from the road, steps lead up for a view over the lakes.
- Ross Castle: guided tours, plus boat trips to Innisfallen Island.
- Knockreer: gardens and woodland paths right on the edge of town.
The Gap of Dunloe
The Gap of Dunloe is a narrow mountain pass between the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks and the Purple Mountain range, with small lakes strung along the bottom. You can walk it, cycle it or take a jaunting car, and the classic day out combines it with a boat trip back across the lakes to Ross Castle. Book the boat in advance on a bank holiday.
Cars are discouraged on the narrow road through the Gap, so if you’re cycling, expect to share it with walkers and horses. Go early and you’ll have it largely to yourself.
When it rains
Kerry gets a lot of rain, and it’s best to accept that from the outset. Muckross House and the farms work in any weather, and Torc Waterfall gets better the wetter it is. Killarney has a good selection of cafés, pubs with music and a cinema, and the Kerry Way’s woodland sections are sheltered from the worst of the wind.
Beyond Killarney
With a car, the Ring of Kerry starts on the doorstep; with a long weekend, a half-loop to Kenmare via Ladies View and Moll’s Gap is a gorgeous drive. Experienced hillwalkers can tackle Carrauntoohil, Ireland’s highest mountain, but it’s a serious climb that needs good weather, proper gear and navigation skills, or a local guide.
Where to stay
Killarney’s huge stock of hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs makes it a good bet for last-minute bank holiday bookings when smaller towns are full. Stay within walking distance of the centre so you can go out in the evening without the car.
A three-night plan
Friday: arrive by train, stroll through town and into the park at Knockreer at sunset.
Saturday: Muckross House and the traditional farms in the morning, Torc Waterfall after lunch, and Ross Castle at the end of the day.
Sunday: the Gap of Dunloe by foot, bike or jaunting car, with the boat back across the lakes to Ross Castle.
Monday: Ladies View and Moll’s Gap on the road to Kenmare, or a gentle cycle in the park before the train.
Good to know before you go
- Agree the price with a jarvey before you set off in a jaunting car.
- Book the Gap of Dunloe boat trip in advance on bank holiday weekends.
- Killarney has lots of rooms, so it’s often the best bet for a last-minute weekend in Kerry.
- Bring proper rain gear: Kerry weather changes fast, especially in the mountains.
- Bike hire in town is the easiest way into the national park: the paths to Muckross and Ross Castle are mostly flat and traffic-free.
- Carrauntoohil is a serious climb. Go with a local guide unless you’re an experienced hillwalker.
Frequently asked questions
Can I visit Killarney without a car?
Yes. The train station is in town, and the national park, Muckross House and Ross Castle can all be reached on foot, by bike or by jaunting car.
How long does the Gap of Dunloe take?
Walking the Gap from Kate Kearney’s Cottage to Lord Brandon’s Cottage takes around 2 to 3 hours. Adding the boat back to Ross Castle makes a full day.
When is Killarney busiest?
In July and August and over the June and August bank holidays. Late spring and September are quieter, and often just as nice.
Is Killarney good for families?
Very. The national park, Muckross farms, boat trips and jaunting cars are all great with children, and the town is easy to walk.
Where we’d stay
Five-star luxury with a lovely spa, a short walk from town.
Stylish boutique option right in the centre.
Central and good value, opposite the national park.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there without a car
One of the easiest Irish escapes without a car: the train station is in town and the national park starts at the edge of it.
- Train from Dublin Heuston to Killarney (most services change at Mallow), about 3 hours 15 minutes.
- Coaches link Killarney with Cork, Limerick, Tralee and Dublin.
- In town: hire a bike, take a jaunting car, or walk into the national park from the centre.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
