Why Bordeaux
Everyone thinks of Paris. Fewer think of Bordeaux, which is a shame, because it might be the more relaxing long weekend. It’s a handsome city of honey-coloured stone on a great curve of the Garonne river, so beautifully preserved that much of it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s compact, flat, easy to walk, full of wine bars and good food, and it’s surrounded by some of the most famous vineyards in the world.
It’s also a short hop from Ireland. Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin in about two hours, and France is only one hour ahead of Irish time, so there’s barely any jet lag to speak of. Bring a two-pin European plug adapter.
Getting around
From the airport, the shuttle bus or the tram takes you into the centre in about half an hour. Once you’re there, Bordeaux is a walking city, and its modern trams glide through the old streets for anything further. Hire a bike if the sun’s out: the riverside paths are flat and lovely.
The city on foot
Start at the Place de la Bourse, an elegant 18th-century square on the river, and its Miroir d’eau, a vast shallow reflecting pool that mirrors the buildings and sends up a cooling mist every few minutes. It’s the city’s postcard, and children love splashing in it on a warm day.
- <strong>Saint-Pierre:</strong> the old quarter, a tangle of lanes, squares and café terraces.
- <strong>Rue Sainte-Catherine:</strong> one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe.
- <strong>Cathédrale Saint-André and the Tour Pey-Berland:</strong> climb the bell tower for the best view over the rooftops.
- <strong>Les Chartrons:</strong> the old wine merchants' quarter, now full of antique shops, bistros and a Sunday market on the quays.
Wine, without the snobbery
La Cité du Vin, a striking building shaped a bit like wine swirling in a glass, is a hands-on museum of wine from around the world, and your ticket includes a tasting with a view over the city from the top floor. You don’t need to know anything about wine to enjoy it.
Then do as the locals do and sit outside a wine bar with a glass and a plate of cheese. Most bars pour local wines by the glass, and they’re happy to recommend something if you tell them what you like.
Day trips
Saint-Émilion is a medieval hilltop village in the vineyards, about 35 minutes by train, with steep cobbled lanes, a church carved out of the rock and wine shops on every corner. Book a vineyard tour if you’d like to see how it’s made.
The Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in Europe, rises over 100 metres above the Atlantic near Arcachon, about an hour from the city by train and bus. Climb to the top for an extraordinary view of the ocean on one side and pine forest on the other, then have oysters in the bay of Arcachon on the way back.
What to eat
Try canelés, small caramelised cakes with a soft, custardy middle, invented in Bordeaux. Eat entrecôte à la bordelaise, steak with a red wine and shallot sauce, and oysters from the bay of Arcachon. The Marché des Capucins, the city’s big covered market, is the place for a long Saturday lunch at the counters.
Where to stay
Stay in the old centre, around Saint-Pierre or near the Place de la Bourse, to walk everywhere. Les Chartrons is quieter and more local, and close to the tram for La Cité du Vin.
A three-night plan
Day one: the Place de la Bourse and the Miroir d’eau, Saint-Pierre’s lanes and dinner in the old town.
Day two: the morning market at the Capucins, the cathedral tower, then La Cité du Vin and a sunset drink on the quays.
Day three: a day trip to Saint-Émilion, or the Dune du Pilat and oysters in Arcachon.
Last morning: canelés and coffee in Les Chartrons before the flight home.
Good to know
Most museums close one day a week, often Monday or Tuesday, so check before you plan your days. Many restaurants serve lunch from about noon to 2pm and dinner from 7.30pm, and some smaller places close on Sundays. Tap water is safe and free, and a carafe d’eau is yours for the asking. If you’re visiting a château, book ahead, as most only take visitors on guided tours.
- <strong>Tram tickets:</strong> buy them at the stop machines or on the app, and validate on board.
- <strong>Wine shipping:</strong> most wine shops can ship cases home, which beats packing bottles in hand luggage.
- <strong>Sundays:</strong> the Chartrons market on the quays is the place to be on a Sunday morning.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are perfect: warm, not too hot, and the vineyards are at their prettiest. The May and October bank holidays are ideal. September brings the grape harvest. Check our flights page for fares, and see every bank holiday to plan your leave. If you love it, Porto is another great wine city on the Atlantic.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the flight from Dublin to Bordeaux?
About two hours. Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin several times a week.
Is Bordeaux good for people who don't know much about wine?
Yes. La Cité du Vin is designed for complete beginners, and wine bars are happy to recommend something by the glass.
How far is the Dune du Pilat from Bordeaux?
About an hour by train to Arcachon and a short bus ride. It’s an easy day trip.
Is Bordeaux expensive?
It’s generally cheaper than Paris for food, drink and hotels, and a glass of good local wine costs less than at home.
What's the time difference with Ireland?
France is one hour ahead of Ireland all year, so you lose an hour on the way out and get it back on the way home.
