Why Copenhagen works for a bank holiday
Copenhagen is the city that makes everywhere else look slightly disorganised. The harbour is clean enough to swim in, half the city gets around by bike, and the food scene is one of the best in Europe. It’s stylish without being snooty, small enough to cover in three nights, and on a long summer evening, sitting by the water with a cold drink, it’s very hard to beat.
A few practical bits: Denmark is one hour ahead of Ireland, you’ll need a two-pin European plug adapter, and the currency is the Danish krone, not the euro. You’ll barely need cash, though: cards and phones are accepted almost everywhere, and some places don’t take cash at all. And yes, it’s expensive. More on that below.
Getting there and getting around
There are direct flights from Dublin with several airlines. The metro runs from the airport to the city centre in about 15 minutes, around the clock, which might be the best airport connection in Europe.
In the city, do as the locals do and rent a bike. The cycle lanes are wide and everywhere, but the locals ride fast and follow the rules, so keep right, signal before you stop and never stand in a bike lane. If two wheels aren’t for you, the metro, buses and harbour buses are excellent, and most of the centre is easily walkable.
The neighbourhoods
Copenhagen is a city of neighbourhoods, each with its own feel.
- Nyhavn: the famous canal of colourful old houses and wooden ships. It's the postcard, so see it, have one drink, then eat somewhere else.
- Indre By: the old centre, with Strøget (one of Europe's longest pedestrian shopping streets), Christiansborg Palace and the Round Tower.
- Christianshavn and Christiania: canals and houseboats, and the famous self-governing Freetown Christiania. It's a residential community, so respect the local rules, including the signs asking you not to take photos in some areas.
- Nørrebro: young, multicultural and full of cafés, bars and cheaper eats, with the lakes nearby for a walk.
- Vesterbro: the old meatpacking district, now home to some of the city's best restaurants and nightlife.
What to see
Tivoli Gardens, opened in 1843, is one of the oldest amusement parks in the world, and it’s pure magic, especially at night when it’s lit up. It’s seasonal, opening for summer, Halloween and Christmas, so check dates before you go. Rosenborg Castle has the Danish crown jewels and a lovely garden, and the Round Tower has a spiral ramp instead of stairs and great views from the top.
Then there’s the Little Mermaid. She is, as everyone will tell you, smaller than you expect, and usually surrounded by tour groups. See her if you’re passing, but don’t make a special trip. A canal tour is a better way to see the city in an hour, gliding past palaces, the Opera House and the old naval quarter.
Swim in the harbour
Yes, really. Copenhagen’s harbour is clean enough to swim in, and in summer the harbour baths, like the one at Islands Brygge, are packed with locals jumping in from the diving boards. It’s free and brilliant. Hardier visitors can join the Danes for a winter dip followed by a sauna; it’s a big thing here, and you’ll feel ten years younger afterwards (or possibly just very cold).
What to eat and drink
Start with smørrebrød, open sandwiches on dark rye bread topped with everything from pickled herring to roast beef and remoulade. They’re a lunchtime institution and look almost too good to eat. Then there are the pastries: try a kanelsnegl, a cinnamon swirl, in any good bakery, and you’ll understand why the whole world went mad for Danish pastries.
Copenhagen is famous for high-end New Nordic restaurants, but you don’t need a fortune to eat well. Food halls like Torvehallerne in the centre and the street food market at Reffen (in the warmer months) are great value and full of choice. To save money, have your big meal at lunch, when many restaurants do cheaper set menus.
Easy day trips
The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, about 35 minutes north by train, is one of the most beautiful art museums anywhere, with a sculpture garden that runs down to the sea. Further up the coast, Kronborg Castle in Helsingør is Shakespeare’s Elsinore from Hamlet. Or cross the Øresund Bridge by train to Malmö in Sweden, about 40 minutes away; bring your passport, as there are sometimes ID checks.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay in Indre By, the old centre, or near Nyhavn, so you can walk to most sights. Vesterbro and Nørrebro are livelier, more local and often a bit cheaper, with great food. Copenhagen hotels are expensive, so book early, and consider a hotel with breakfast included, which helps the budget.
A three-night plan
Day one: a canal tour to get your bearings, then Nyhavn, Strøget and the Round Tower, and an evening at Tivoli if it’s open.
Day two: rent a bike and ride to Rosenborg Castle and the lakes, lunch at Torvehallerne, then Christianshavn and Christiania, and dinner in Vesterbro.
Day three: the train to Louisiana and Helsingør, or a harbour swim and a lazy afternoon at Islands Brygge in summer.
Last morning: a cinnamon swirl and a coffee, then the metro to the airport.
When to go
Summer is Copenhagen’s best season: long, light evenings, harbour swimming and everyone outdoors. The June bank holiday and the August bank holiday are both ideal. December is magical too, with Tivoli’s Christmas season and markets across the city. Winter is dark and cold, but the cosy cafés and candlelit bars are what the Danes mean by hygge.
Not sure which weekend to use? See every Irish bank holiday or let the annual leave planner find the best days to book. If you want a cheaper city with as much charm, try Kraków.
Frequently asked questions
Is Copenhagen expensive?
Yes, it’s one of the dearest cities in Europe, especially for eating out and drinks. Save by eating at food halls, having your main meal at lunch and getting around by bike.
Do I need cash in Copenhagen?
Hardly ever. Cards and phone payments are accepted almost everywhere, and some places are card-only.
Is Tivoli open all year?
No. Tivoli opens for seasons: summer, Halloween and Christmas. Check the dates before you plan your trip around it.
Can you really swim in Copenhagen harbour?
Yes. The harbour is clean, and the harbour baths, like Islands Brygge, are free and very popular in summer. Swim only at the official spots.
What's the time difference with Ireland?
Copenhagen is one hour ahead of Ireland all year.
