Why Kraków works for a bank holiday
Kraków punches well above its weight. It has one of the biggest medieval market squares in Europe, a royal castle on a hill, a Jewish quarter full of history and bars, and food that will undo your belt for a fraction of Dublin prices. It’s compact, walkable, and equally good in summer sunshine or winter snow.
A few practical bits: Poland is one hour ahead of Ireland, you’ll need a two-pin European plug adapter, and the currency is the złoty, not the euro. Cards work almost everywhere, but take a little cash out at a bank ATM for markets and small bars, and avoid the standalone cash machines with poor exchange rates. If a card machine offers to charge you in euro, choose złoty: you’ll get a better rate.
Getting there and getting around
There are direct flights from Dublin, and other Irish airports have flown the route at times, so check what’s on when you’re travelling. From Kraków Airport, the train to the main station takes about 20 minutes, and from there the Old Town is a short walk.
Once you’re in, you won’t need much transport. The Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz are all within walking distance of each other, and the trams are cheap and easy if it’s cold or wet. Buy tickets from the machines and validate them on board.
The Old Town and Wawel
Start in the Rynek Główny, the vast main square, with the Renaissance Cloth Hall in the middle (traders have sold here for centuries, and they still do) and St Mary’s Basilica on the corner. Every hour, a trumpeter plays a tune from the taller tower and stops abruptly mid-note, in memory of a medieval watchman said to have been cut short by an arrow. Go inside the basilica for the extraordinary carved wooden altarpiece.
Then follow the Royal Route down to Wawel Hill, where the castle and cathedral sat at the heart of Polish royal life for centuries. Wander the courtyards for free, or buy tickets for the state rooms and the cathedral, where Polish kings are buried. Afterwards, look for the dragon statue by the river below, which breathes real fire every few minutes.
Kazimierz and Podgórze
Kazimierz was for centuries the centre of Jewish life in Kraków. Today it’s a fascinating and moving mix: historic synagogues and a Jewish cemetery side by side with vintage shops, cafés and some of the best bars in the city. At its heart is Plac Nowy, where a round market hall sells zapiekanki, long open baguettes piled with mushrooms and cheese, which are the city’s favourite late-night snack.
Across the river in Podgórze is the area that became the wartime ghetto, and Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory, now an excellent museum about Kraków under Nazi occupation. Book a timed ticket ahead.
Day trips: the salt mine and Auschwitz
Wieliczka Salt Mine, a short ride outside the city, is a UNESCO site where miners carved chapels, statues and even chandeliers out of rock salt over hundreds of years. The underground chapel is astonishing. Visits are by guided tour, so book ahead.
Many people also visit the Auschwitz-Birkenau Memorial and Museum, about an hour and a half away. It’s a harrowing and important day, not a sightseeing trip. Entry is free but must be booked in advance, and guided visits are strongly recommended. Plan a quiet evening afterwards; most people need it.
What to eat and drink
Polish food is hearty, cheap and delicious. Start with pierogi, dumplings stuffed with everything from potato and cheese to meat or fruit, and try żurek, a sour rye soup often served in a bread bowl. On the street, look for the obwarzanek, a twisted bread ring sold from little carts all over the Old Town.
For a cheap, authentic lunch, find a milk bar (bar mleczny), old-style canteens serving home cooking at very low prices. In the evening, try a Polish craft beer or a flavoured vodka, and remember that Kazimierz is where the best bars are.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay in the Old Town or just outside its ring of parks, so you can walk everywhere. Kazimierz is the best choice if you want character and nightlife on your doorstep, and Podgórze is quieter and good value. Kraków is a popular stag and hen destination, so if you want peace, ask for a room away from the main square on Friday and Saturday nights.
A three-night plan
Day one: the main square, St Mary’s Basilica and the Cloth Hall, then down the Royal Route to Wawel, and dinner in the Old Town.
Day two: Kazimierz in the morning, Schindler’s Factory after lunch, and an evening in the bars around Plac Nowy.
Day three: the Wieliczka Salt Mine, or a day at Auschwitz-Birkenau, with a quiet dinner afterwards.
Last morning: pierogi for breakfast (no judgement), a final walk round the square and the train to the airport.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are lovely, and the May bank holiday and June bank holiday bring long, warm days. Winter is cold, often below freezing, but it’s also when Kraków is at its most magical: the Christmas market fills the main square from late November with wooden stalls, mulled wine and grilled cheese, making the Christmas break or a December weekend a great time to go. Summer is busy and warm.
Not sure which weekend to use? See every Irish bank holiday or let the annual leave planner find the best days to book. If you love a historic city with great pubs, Edinburgh is another winner.
Frequently asked questions
Is three nights enough for Kraków?
Yes. Three nights covers the Old Town, Wawel, Kazimierz and one day trip, either the salt mine or Auschwitz-Birkenau.
Do they use the euro in Kraków?
No. Poland uses the złoty. Cards work almost everywhere, and if a machine offers to charge you in euro, choose złoty for a better rate.
Do I need to book Auschwitz in advance?
Yes. Entry is free but must be booked online in advance, and guided visits are recommended. Allow most of a day including travel.
Is Kraków cheap?
It’s one of the better-value city breaks in Europe, especially for food, drink and public transport. Hotels near the main square cost more at weekends and in December.
What's the time difference with Ireland?
Kraków is one hour ahead of Ireland all year.
