Why Edinburgh works for a bank holiday
Edinburgh is the long weekend for people who hate losing half of it to travel. You’re in the air for about an hour from Dublin, the clocks don’t change, and you’ll be in the Old Town in time for lunch. Then the city does the rest: a castle perched on an old volcano, cobbled lanes that look like a film set, a hill you can climb before breakfast and some of the best pubs this side of the Irish Sea.
It’s also blissfully easy. Scotland is on the same time as Ireland, the plugs are the same three-pin ones you use at home, and everyone speaks English, more or less. The one thing to sort is money: Scotland uses pounds sterling, though cards and phone payments work almost everywhere.
Getting there and getting around
There are plenty of direct flights from Dublin, and some from Cork and Shannon depending on the season, so check before you plan around them. From Edinburgh Airport, the Airlink bus and the tram both get you into the centre in around half an hour, and both are far cheaper than a taxi.
Once you’re in, walk. The centre is compact, but it’s hilly and it’s built on several levels, so a street can pass over another street without you noticing. Comfortable shoes and a rain jacket will do more for your weekend than any itinerary. Buses are frequent if your legs give up, and contactless payment works on board.
The Old Town and the New Town
Edinburgh is really two cities that grew up side by side, and both are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- The Old Town: the Royal Mile runs downhill from the castle to Holyrood Palace, with narrow closes and steep stairways running off it like ribs. Wander into them.
- Victoria Street and the Grassmarket: the curving, colourful street that people swear inspired Diagon Alley, then a square full of old pubs below the castle rock.
- The New Town: neat Georgian streets, grand squares and Princes Street Gardens, with the best views back up at the castle.
- Stockbridge and Dean Village: a village-y neighbourhood with independent shops and cafés, and a riverside walk to an impossibly pretty old mill hamlet.
- Leith: the old port, now full of seafood restaurants and waterfront bars, a short bus or tram ride from the centre.
Climb something
Edinburgh rewards a bit of effort. Arthur’s Seat, the hill in Holyrood Park, takes about 45 minutes to an hour to climb from the bottom, and on a clear day you can see across the city to the sea. It’s a proper hill, not a gentle slope, so go in decent shoes and keep away from the edges when it’s windy.
If that sounds like too much after a night out, Calton Hill gives you nearly the same view for a ten-minute stroll from Princes Street, with a collection of odd monuments thrown in. Sunset up there is hard to beat.
Castles, museums and the free stuff
Edinburgh Castle is the big ticket, and it’s worth it: the Honours of Scotland (the Scottish crown jewels), the old prisons and great views over the city. Book a timed ticket online, especially on bank holiday weekends, and go early. If you’re there around 1pm on most days, listen out for the One O’Clock Gun.
The good news for your wallet is that many of the best museums are free, including the National Museum of Scotland and the Scottish National Gallery. The museum’s rooftop terrace has one of the best free views in the city. Holyrood Palace, the King’s official residence in Scotland, is at the other end of the Royal Mile if you want another palace for the collection.
What to eat and drink
Scottish food is far better than its reputation. Try haggis at least once (it’s delicious, honestly, and many places serve it with neeps and tatties or in a tasting plate), and look for Scottish seafood, from Cullen skink, a smoked haddock soup, to oysters and langoustines down in Leith.
Then there’s the drink. Edinburgh’s old pubs are a joy, many with snugs, fires and more whiskies than you’ll get through in a lifetime. If you’re curious about Scotch, a whisky bar with a knowledgeable barman will steer you better than any tour. And yes, you’ll find a decent pint of the black stuff too, though it’s polite to try a local ale first.
Easy day trips
Glasgow is about 50 minutes by train and makes a great contrast: grittier, friendlier and with excellent free museums. North Berwick is a seaside town about 35 minutes east by train, with beaches and boat trips out to the gannets on the Bass Rock. For castles and history, Stirling is under an hour away, with its castle and the Wallace Monument.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay in the Old Town or the New Town, so you can walk everywhere and stumble home from the pub. Stockbridge is quieter and more local, and Leith is good value with great food, a short tram ride away. Edinburgh gets very busy and very expensive in August during the festivals and over Hogmanay, so book early or pick another weekend.
A three-night plan
Day one: the castle in the morning, then down the Royal Mile, into the closes and over to Victoria Street and the Grassmarket for a pub dinner.
Day two: Arthur’s Seat early, then the National Museum and a wander through the New Town, Princes Street Gardens and up Calton Hill for sunset.
Day three: Stockbridge and Dean Village in the morning, then a seafood lunch in Leith or a day trip to North Berwick.
Last morning: a full Scottish breakfast and a slow coffee before the bus back to the airport.
When to go
Late spring and early autumn are lovely, and the June bank holiday gives you long, bright evenings. August is festival season, which is brilliant fun but crowded and dear. December brings the Christmas market and lights, and the Christmas break can be a good excuse for a short trip before Hogmanay prices kick in. Edinburgh’s weather is changeable all year, so pack layers whatever the season.
Not sure which weekend to use? See every Irish bank holiday or let the annual leave planner find the longest break for the fewest days off. If you love a compact old city with great pubs, Kraków is another winner.
Frequently asked questions
Is two nights enough for Edinburgh?
Two nights covers the castle, the Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat and the New Town. Three nights lets you add a day trip or just slow down.
Do I need a passport to fly to Edinburgh?
Irish citizens don’t need a passport for the UK under the Common Travel Area, but airlines ask for photo ID and their rules differ, with some accepting only a passport or passport card. Check your airline’s rules before you go.
Is Edinburgh expensive?
Hotels can be pricey, especially in August and at Hogmanay. Food and drink cost about the same as Dublin, and many of the best museums are free.
What currency do they use in Edinburgh?
Pounds sterling. Cards and phone payments are accepted almost everywhere.
What's the time difference with Ireland?
There isn’t one. Edinburgh is on the same time as Ireland all year.
