Why Lisbon works so well for a bank holiday
Some cities need a week. Lisbon needs a bank holiday Monday, one day of annual leave and a decent pair of shoes. It’s the classic Irish “chase the sun” break for good reason: it’s warmer than home for most of the year, it’s under three hours from Dublin, and it packs castles, beaches, fairytale palaces and a serious food scene into a city you can cross on a tram.
It’s also refreshingly easy for us. Portugal is on the same time as Ireland, so there’s no body clock to fix. It uses the euro, your phone works as it does at home, and English is widely spoken, though a cheery obrigado (or obrigada, if you’re a woman) goes a long way. The one thing to pack is a plug adapter: Portugal uses the round two-pin European plug.
Getting there and getting around
There are direct flights from Dublin all year, and seasonal routes from Cork and Shannon in some years, so check before you plan around them. The airport is 20 to 30 minutes from the centre on the metro (red line, changing once for the old town), which beats the taxi queue on a busy Friday night. Pick up a rechargeable Viva Viagem or Navegante card at the station and top it up as you go.
Once you’re in, Lisbon is a walking city, just one with a very strong opinion about hills. The famous pavements are made of polished limestone that turns into an ice rink after rain, so leave the smooth-soled shoes at home. When your legs give up, the old trams, funiculars and the Santa Justa lift will do the climbing for you.
The neighbourhoods, and what each one is for
Think of Lisbon as a handful of villages stitched together. You won’t see them all in three nights, and that’s grand: pick two or three and do them properly.
- Alfama: the oldest quarter, all tangled lanes, washing lines and São Jorge Castle on top. Get lost on purpose, then come back at night for fado.
- Baixa and Chiado: the grand, flat bit rebuilt after the 1755 earthquake, with big squares, old cafés and the best shopping. A handy base.
- Bairro Alto: sleepy by day, one big street party by night. Bring your good mood, not your good shoes.
- Príncipe Real: leafy, stylish and calmer, with independent shops and some of the nicer small hotels.
- Belém: monuments, river views and the most famous custard tarts on earth, a short tram ride west along the river.
- Cais do Sodré and Alcântara: the Time Out Market for lunch, the riverside for a sunset drink and LX Factory, an old industrial complex full of bookshops, bars and street art.
Climb up for the views
Lisbon’s viewpoints, the miradouros, are free, and they’re the best thing in the city. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte is the highest, Portas do Sol and Santa Luzia hang over the rooftops of Alfama, and São Pedro de Alcântara is perfect for a glass of wine as the lights come on. Go at golden hour and you’ll take 200 photos of the same orange roofs. Everyone does. It’s allowed.
Tram 28 is the famous ride through the old town, and it’s lovely, but it’s also packed and popular with pickpockets. Ride it early in the morning, keep your bag in front of you, or simply walk the route and wave at it as it rattles past.
What to eat and drink
Start with a pastel de nata, the warm custard tart with a blistered top. The bakery in Belém has been making them since 1837 and the queue moves faster than it looks; in the centre, Manteigaria does a fine job without the wait. Have them warm, with cinnamon, and don’t pretend you’ll only have one.
For a cheap lunch, try a bifana, a garlicky pork sandwich that costs about the same as a coffee at home. Dinner is about grilled fish, seafood and bacalhau, the salt cod the Portuguese claim to cook 365 ways. Finish with a shot of ginjinha, a sweet cherry liqueur sold from tiny bars near Rossio square.
One local quirk worth knowing: when you sit down, bread, olives or cheese may land on the table before you’ve ordered. They’re not free. If you eat them they go on the bill, and if you don’t want them, just say so and they’ll be taken away, no offence taken.
Easy day trips
Sintra is about 40 minutes by train from Rossio station and looks like someone designed it from a child’s drawing of a castle. Pena Palace is the colourful one on the hilltop, and Quinta da Regaleira has the spiral “initiation well” you’ve seen online. Book timed tickets in advance, go on the earliest train you can bear, and wear proper shoes, because the hills here make Lisbon look flat.
Cascais is the other way, about 40 minutes along the coast by train from Cais do Sodré. It’s a pretty old fishing town with sandy beaches, an easy seafront walk and seafood lunches. It’s the perfect last afternoon before an evening flight.
Where to stay
For a first visit, stay in Baixa or Chiado: it’s central, close to the metro and flatter than anywhere else, which you’ll appreciate at 1am. Príncipe Real is quieter and more stylish. Alfama is full of character but steep, and some streets are noisy on fado nights. If you’re coming for the nightlife, Bairro Alto and Cais do Sodré put you right in it, along with the noise.
A three-night plan
Day one: wander Baixa and Chiado, take the Santa Justa lift or walk up to the castle, then watch the sunset from a viewpoint in Alfama and stay for dinner and fado.
Day two: Belém in the morning for the Jerónimos Monastery, the river walk and those tarts, then lunch at LX Factory and a drink on the riverfront at Cais do Sodré.
Day three: the early train to Sintra, back for a late dinner in Príncipe Real or Bairro Alto.
Last morning: a final coffee and nata, a stroll along the river, or a beach hour in Cascais if your flight allows.
When to go
Spring and autumn are the sweet spot. The May bank holiday and the October bank holiday usually bring warm days without the summer crowds. Mid-June is party season: the night of 12 June is the Santo António festival, when Alfama fills with grilled sardines, music and paper decorations. July and August are hot and busy, and winter is mild but can be rainy, though even a wet day in Lisbon beats a wet day in most places.
Not sure which weekend to use? See every Irish bank holiday for this year and next, or let the annual leave planner find the longest break for the fewest days off. If you love Lisbon, Porto is its smaller, moodier cousin up the coast, and just as good for a long weekend.
Frequently asked questions
Is three nights enough for Lisbon?
Yes. Three nights covers the main neighbourhoods, Belém and a day trip to Sintra or Cascais. Two nights works if you skip the day trip.
Is Lisbon expensive?
It’s cheaper than Dublin for food and drink, though hotels in the centre have become pricier. Eat where the locals do, away from the main squares, and you’ll eat very well for less.
Do I need to hire a car?
No. The metro, trams and trains cover the city, Sintra and Cascais, and parking in the old town is a test of character you don’t need on holiday.
Is Lisbon safe?
Generally, yes. The main thing to watch for is pickpockets on Tram 28 and in busy tourist spots, so keep your phone and wallet out of back pockets.
What's the time difference with Ireland?
There isn’t one. Lisbon is on the same time as Ireland all year, which makes a short break even easier.
