Coast & beaches Family-friendly Walking
Old-school seaside, wild coast
Kilkee has been a holiday town since the Victorians came by paddle steamer from Limerick, and it still has that old seaside feel: ice cream on the prom, families on the sand and a curve of guesthouses facing the bay. It’s also the gateway to Loop Head, the narrow peninsula that runs out to where the Shannon meets the Atlantic.
Put those together and you have a weekend that works for almost everyone. Children get a safe beach and rock pools. Walkers get some of the most dramatic cliff paths in the country. And everyone gets fewer crowds than at the Cliffs of Moher, an hour up the coast.
The Kilkee Cliff Walk
Start from the Diamond Rocks café at the western end of the bay and follow the path up onto the cliffs. The loop is about 8 kilometres and takes two to three hours at an easy pace, passing sea stacks, blowholes and natural arches. There’s no fence along most of it, so stay well back from the edge and skip it in high winds.
Swimming in the Pollock Holes
At low tide, the flat reef at the end of the bay reveals the Pollock Holes, a set of natural rock pools filled with clear seawater. They warm up a little in the sun and are perfect for nervous swimmers and children. Check the tide times and go around low water. When the tide comes in, the pools disappear under the sea.
Kilkee also has a long tradition of year-round sea swimming, and you’ll see locals at the Pollock Holes and the diving spots at Newfoundout on the coldest mornings.
Out to Loop Head
Spend a day driving the peninsula. It’s only about 25 kilometres to the lighthouse, but you’ll stop all the way.
- The Bridges of Ross: once three natural sea arches, now one remains. In autumn it’s a famous spot for watching seabirds.
- Loop Head Lighthouse: climb the tower for views as far as the Kerry mountains on a clear day, and look for seabirds on the cliffs nearby.
- Kilbaha: a tiny village with a pub on the water and the Little Ark, a mobile chapel from the days when Mass couldn’t be held on local land.
- Carrigaholt: a castle on the shore and boat trips to see the bottlenose dolphins that live in the Shannon estuary.
Dolphins in the estuary
The Shannon estuary is home to a resident group of bottlenose dolphins, one of only a few in Irish waters. Dolphin watching trips from Carrigaholt run in the summer months and spend a couple of hours on the water. Sightings are frequent but never guaranteed, so treat the trip as a lovely afternoon on the estuary with a very good chance of a bonus.
Eating and drinking
West Clare does simple seafood very well. Look for crab claws, mussels and fish fresh from the local piers. Kilkee has a handful of pubs with music in summer, and a pint in a fireside pub in Carrigaholt is the perfect end to a day on the peninsula.
When to go
The June and August bank holidays are peak season, and Kilkee gets busy with families, so book early. May and September are calmer and often brighter than you’d expect. In winter the town is quiet, but storm watching from the cliffs is spectacular.
When it rains
Head for Kilrush, 15 minutes from Kilkee, a handsome market town with the restored Vandeleur Walled Garden and a marina. In season, boat trips run from Kilrush to Scattery Island, with a round tower and the ruins of a monastery founded by St Senan. Or simply settle into a Kilkee café and watch the weather roll in over the bay. Storm watching from the cliffs here is a spectacle in itself, from a safe distance.
Where to stay
Kilkee has the most choice, with hotels, guesthouses and self-catering near the beach. Carrigaholt and Kilbaha on the peninsula are quieter, with cottages and a couple of B&Bs, and Kilrush is a good-value alternative.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Kilkee, walk the prom and have fish and chips on the sea wall.
Saturday: the Kilkee Cliff Walk in the morning, the Pollock Holes at low tide, and dinner in town.
Sunday: drive out to Loop Head Lighthouse via the Bridges of Ross, lunch in Kilbaha or Carrigaholt, and a dolphin trip in summer.
Frequently asked questions
Is Kilkee good for families?
Yes. The beach is sheltered, the Pollock Holes are great for paddling at low tide, and lifeguards are on duty during the summer season.
Can you go up Loop Head Lighthouse?
Yes, in season. Guided tours take you up the tower and out onto the balcony. Opening is seasonal, so check times before you travel.
How far is Kilkee from the Cliffs of Moher?
About an hour by car, so you can easily combine the two over a long weekend.
Can you visit Scattery Island?
Yes, in season. Boat trips run from Kilrush marina, and the island has a round tower and early monastic ruins.
Where we’d stay
Family-run hotel on the main street, a short walk to the beach.
A larger hotel that suits families, a few minutes from the strand.
We may earn a small commission if you book, at no extra cost to you.
Getting there without a car
You can reach Kilkee by public transport, but Loop Head itself is best explored by car or bike.
- Train from Dublin to Ennis via Limerick, about 3 hours.
- Bus Éireann from Ennis to Kilkee, about 1 hour 15 minutes, a few times a day.
- Bike hire in Kilkee for a ride out along the peninsula on a calm day.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
