Family-friendly Food & drink Walking
Ireland’s great lake, without the crowds
Lough Derg is the largest lake on the Shannon, nearly 40 km long, with Clare and Galway on one shore and Tipperary on the other. It’s a world of sailing boats, wooded hills, lakeside villages and quiet bays, only two hours from Dublin and yet somehow overlooked by most people planning a long weekend. That’s what makes it such a good one.
Pick a lakeside base, hire a boat or a kayak, walk a stretch of the Lough Derg Way, and eat well in the twin towns of Killaloe and Ballina. It’s the kind of weekend where you come home properly rested.
It’s also brilliant for families and groups. The water is calm, the distances are short, there’s something to do whatever the weather, and nobody has to drive for four hours to get there. Bring the bikes, the swimming gear and an appetite.
Killaloe and Ballina
At the southern tip of the lake, Killaloe in Clare and Ballina in Tipperary face each other across the Shannon, joined by a 13-arch stone bridge. Killaloe has St Flannan’s Cathedral, built around 1200, and was once home to Brian Boru, the High King of Ireland, whose fort of Kincora stood on the hill above the town. Today both towns are lovely for a wander, with riverside pubs, cafés and boats coming and going.
Holy Island (Inis Cealtra)
Off the village of Mountshannon on the Clare shore lies Inis Cealtra, or Holy Island, the site of an early Christian monastery founded in the sixth century. Its ruined churches, a round tower and old grave slabs stand among the grass, and the island has been a place of pilgrimage for centuries. Local boatmen run trips from Mountshannon harbour in season, with a guided tour of the island, which is the only way to get there. Book ahead.
On the water
- The Lough Derg Blueway: a network of marked kayak and canoe trails, with launch points around the lake. Hire a kayak or join a guided paddle.
- Boat hire and cruises: hire a day boat, take a lake cruise from Killaloe, or book a cabin cruiser for a few nights. No licence is needed for hired cruisers.
- Sailing: the lake is popular with sailors, and several clubs run taster sessions in summer.
- Swimming: there are lakeside swimming spots at Ballycuggaran near Killaloe and at Mountshannon.
Walks with a view
The Lough Derg Way follows the lake from Limerick to Dromineer, and the stretch around Killaloe is lovely. For a big view, climb Tountinna in the Arra Mountains above Ballina, or walk the Ballycuggaran loop on the Clare side, which climbs through the forest to a viewpoint over the whole southern lake. On the northern shore, Portumna Forest Park has easy woodland trails by the water, and Portumna Castle, a 17th-century fortified house, has a walled kitchen garden.
Lakeside villages
Take the scenic drive around the lake and stop at the villages along the way: Mountshannon, a pretty planned village with a harbour; Dromineer, a sailing village with a ruined castle on the Tipperary shore; Terryglass, a lovely spot with good pubs at the northern end; and Garrykennedy, a tiny harbour with a ruined castle and a pub by the water.
When it rains
Portumna Castle, the cathedral in Killaloe, a cosy lakeside pub or a spa afternoon are the best wet-day plans. Limerick, 25 minutes from Killaloe, has King John’s Castle, the Hunt Museum and the Milk Market.
Where to eat and drink
Killaloe and Ballina have the best choice of restaurants and pubs, many with river views. The lakeside villages of Terryglass, Dromineer and Garrykennedy have classic pubs with food, and in summer you can eat outside by the water.
Good to know before you go
- Boat trips to Holy Island run in season and need booking. Check times before you travel.
- Bring layers for the water: it’s always cooler on the lake than on shore.
- Lakeside pubs get busy on sunny weekends. Book dinner if you can.
- The drive around the whole lake takes about three hours with stops, so pick one shore per day.
Which area to stay in
Killaloe and Ballina are the best base, with the most places to stay and eat. Mountshannon suits Holy Island and a quieter stay, and Portumna and Terryglass are good for the northern end of the lake.
A two-night plan
Friday: arrive in Killaloe and have dinner by the river in Ballina.
Saturday: a kayak or boat trip in the morning, then Mountshannon and the boat to Holy Island.
Sunday: the Ballycuggaran loop or Tountinna in the morning, then a slow drive home via Dromineer and Terryglass.
Lough Derg is lovely for the June and August bank holidays, when the evenings are long and the water is at its warmest. Combine it with Limerick and Adare or Athlone and Lough Ree.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Holy Island on Lough Derg?
By boat from Mountshannon harbour. Local boatmen run trips with a guided tour in season, and it’s best to book ahead.
Is Killaloe in Clare or Tipperary?
Killaloe is in Clare, and Ballina, across the bridge, is in Tipperary. The two towns face each other across the Shannon.
Can you swim in Lough Derg?
Yes. Ballycuggaran near Killaloe and Mountshannon are popular spots in summer. Swim with others and check local safety signs.
How far is Lough Derg from Dublin?
About two hours to Killaloe or Ballina via the M7, or 25 minutes from Limerick.
Where we’d stay
On the river at the southern tip of the lake, with a pool and views of Killaloe.
Search Killaloe and Ballina's guesthouses and B&Bs by the river.
Search Mountshannon's B&Bs and cottages near the harbour.
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Getting there
About two hours from Dublin. You’ll want a car around the lake.
- By car: about two hours from Dublin to Killaloe and Ballina via the M7, or 25 minutes from Limerick.
- By public transport: trains and buses run to Limerick, with local buses to Killaloe. A car is much easier for the lake.
- On the water: day boats, kayaks and cruisers can be hired at several points around the lake.
Timetables change, especially on bank holidays, so check with the operator before you travel.
